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The Torres del Paine National Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Know before you go: 8 tips before travel to Patagonia

Learn 8 tips you should know before you go to Patagonia.

Traveling to Patagonia is a dream destination for many travelers, either the weekend wanderer or the adventurous outdoorsman. This easily qualifies as one of my favorite places on earth; like many others I was mesmerized by the pure beauty of the landscape. And, like everyone with a little bit of gaucho in their blood, Patagonia left an indelible impression in my soul.

Patagonia is very diverse and simply breathtaking, but this blog will focus on the southern half of Patagonia, where you can visit El Chaltén, Perito Moreno Glacier, and Torres del Paine.

Patagonia is huge

Patagonia, simply put, is massive: not only does it span two countries – Argentina and Chile – it engulfs five of Argentina’s provinces: Chubut, Neuquén, Río Negro, Tierra del Fuego and Santa Cruz.

Patagonia is incredibly diverse and the best way to divide this region, is not by country borders, but in half: North and South. The North and South of Patagonia are very different environments, and you will need to prepare for both as such.

The North, which can be considered where Bariloche is located, is very similar to the Pacific Northwest with towering pines, mountain lakes, and thick forests covering the terrain. The South is pretty much a tundra of low grass, brush and wind – LOTS of wind. Flying over this part of Patagonia can feel like you’re over a desert, but you’ll see turquoise rivers cut through the grey landscape. Each half has its own charm and beauty but be prepared for two totally different experiences!

Tip: Chile’s side of Patagonia is even more different still – due to climate and weather phenomenons, this side of the southern Andes has trees and other vegetation apart from tundra and low brush.

When to go

There is no wrong time to visit Patagonia, but when you choose to go your experience may be totally different. If you go in the summer months, December through March you will have access to a lot more activities and hikes than other seasons. While the fall and spring bring their own charm, you may risk losing out on activities due to snow closings.

The weather is totally unpredictable in Patagonia, so be well packed and ready for anything no matter when you go.

The region is known for incredibly strong winds, sometimes reaching over 100 km/h, followed by storms that can materialize out of nowhere and disappear just as quickly. While it can be warm, don’t expect hot summer weather that you might encounter closer to the equator. When it comes to dressing for the weather in Patagonia, plan on wearing things that are waterproof, including your hiking boots, and prepare for the possibility of freezing temperatures.

What you NEED to bring

Check out our packing list to get the full scope, but you seriously do need hiking boots which are comfortable and waterproof. Patagonia can be cold, rainy, muddy and very rocky with many trails that go off the beaten path. Make sure you are prepared to handle whatever the region throws at you.

Bring lots of layers that allow you to regulate your body temperature and will keep you dry. Windproof and waterproof gear are the most important items you can bring aside from a good pair of hiking boots.

Tip: Bring thick socks. Blisters form when there is excess friction between the shoe and foot; thick socks will not only help reduce friction, but it will keep everything tight so if blisters do form it won’t be a major issue while hiking.

Slow travel

This is a rough landscape and travel will be slow; either the weather will not play along, or the terrain makes travel time much longer than you would expect. Plan ahead with a couple of buffer days in case the weather does not cooperate or if you have long travel days to get to national parks.

Tip: Some excursions or tours will take longer due to the route they choose. The longer tours will be a smoother ride, but with a shorter (tougher) drive you can avoid longer travel times.

View from Blanca Patagonia Boutique Inn and Cabins. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
View from Blanca Patagonia Boutique Inn and Cabins. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Border crossing

Border crossings can be a pain, and this is no exception. Depending on the time you arrive at the border it can be an arduous process… you will have to go through customs four times in an excursion (some have noted that it can take an hour or more going through customs).

If you decide to cross the border, be aware of what you’re carrying as each country has different laws. It’s easy to forget as you will spend lots of time on a bus but keep an eye out for the different control protocols. In Chile, as this area of Patagonia has more flora and vegetation, you will go through a screening process to keep invasive species out.

It’s normal to have on snacks in your bag for long journeys, but make sure you eat or drink anything that isn’t permitted before you get to the border (especially meat, fruit, and dairy products). Check all your bags and pockets thoroughly as you may face a hefty fine and delay the tour.

Read blog: Visit El Calafate in Argentina: The gateway to the best attractions

Mate

Mate is the one thing I never leave without…but against better judgment I left it off this trip. However, there is no shortage of the local beverage and you’ll find lots of hot water stations to refill your thermos. Mate will also last longer than coffee and provide you hours of energy from the caffeine – this will come in handy while you are braving the extreme elements Patagonia can throw at visitors. One of the great joys I get is to drink mate outside surrounded by nature. Take a chance to zen out in front of a mountain lake or waterfall while drinking the warm tea.

What to eat

Argentina is famous for its parrillas – multiple cuts of beef grilled over wood coals; Patagonia does not shy away from this tradition at all. However, the region is famous for grilled lamb –Cordero Patagónico – a dish you cannot leave without trying. There are tons of different restaurants all offering this iconic meal, but don’t worry, no matter where you go you’ll be eating very well.

Guanacos are the regional cousins to llamas and a puma’s dream meal. Guanacos can overpopulate land, bringing more pumas to estancias (ranches) or they end up eating all the grass meant for herds of sheep. These animals were decimated in the early centuries by fur traders, so hunting guanacos can be controversial but considered by some to help maintain the population at safe levels. In Patagonia, the meat is considered a delicacy and not a normal dietary staple. However, there are some restaurants that are allowed to purchase guanaco meat – this is one of those delicacies found when traveling, and if you are up for the experience, try a guanaco burger or empanadas.

Stews (guisos) are a great way to warm up and get crucial nutrients while out in the Patagonian wilds. The local corn, squash and lamb stew, Locro, is very good and found all over the region. Other stews made from lentils or rice are just as delicious and filled with hearty items like sausages.

Patagonia beer is my favorite beer brand in South America and brewed in northern Patagonia’s Bariloche. They have a whole array of flavors, each that pair great with the full spectrum of Argentine cuisine. Wine from Patagonia is very unique and pairs well with most meals. However if you want a good hearty wine you can’t go wrong with a local Malbec.

Calafate ice cream: Calafate is not just the name of a town but it’s a local berry that grows in the wild. Yes, it may be cold out, but that shouldn’t stop you from enjoying this local and unique flavor of ice cream.

Cost

Flying to the edge of the world can be expensive. You may want to consider a few options to help you manage costs regardless of how long you will be staying in Patagonia.

Combining trips: Trips to Patagonia can be much cheaper if you buy them from Argentina, Chile or Uruguay – like we did – as flights will be cheaper. However, it may not be the case from other South American countries so make sure to check prices within you first destination.

Accommodations: While there are lots of options ranging from luxury hotels to communal hostels, choosing a good place is key. While we stayed at a gorgeous hotel with cabins which included breakfast, there are other accommodations offering kitchens where you can cook on your own. However, many travelers to the region will be on all day excursions, which offer lunch, so a personal kitchen may not be worth the price.

Excursions: The majority of your budget will be taken up by your trips to the national parks or other iconic locations. Some places, like the Perito Moreno glacier, will offer activities not included in your initial excursion for an extra charge. Many of these options are worth the additional cost, so keep in mind you may need to make tough choices.

Restaurants: Generally speaking, you will get a great meal in Argentina for less than you normally spend in other countries. In Patagonia, you’ll find the same experience, but it also depends on where you stay. If you stay in El Calafate, you can be sure you’ll be eating great in a variety of restaurants and not break the bank. If you stay in a more isolated location, you may spend more than you bargained for.

We are part of several affiliate programs including Amazon and Viator which means that we will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase through the links included in this post.

Hiking in El Chaltén. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Packing list for a vacation in Patagonia

Below is a packing list for a vacation to the breath-taking region of Patagonia.

Packing for a trip to Patagonia can be challenging because in this region the weather is highly unpredictable and can drastically change in the blink of an eye. You may experience sunshine, wind, and rain – all within a couple of hours; even in the summer you may go from quite warm to almost freezing cold.

This is why it’s important to travel prepared for different weather extremes because the majority of your time will be spent outside. Even if the weather doesn’t cooperate with you, packing the correct items will go a long way for you to enjoy your Patagonia trip.

The list I prepared below is not exhaustive at all nor does it encompass all the gear or clothes needed for a trip with multiday hikes. These are the things we brought during our trip to Patagonia, where we booked several day excursions to the Perito Moreno Glacier, El Chaltén and Torres del Paine National Park. Consider this list of items as part of a beginner’s guide to the region.

Tips

When traveling to South Patagonia keep these tips in mind:

  • Layer up: Since the weather won’t likely cooperate, you’ll need to layer clothes to be prepared to experience all four season in a day and be comfortable regardless of your activities. Keep in mind you will be outdoors, so you will need wind and rain gear as well as a simple tee shirt. After hours of hiking, even during cold and windy days, your body temperature will likely raise; you’ll feel a lot better with multiple layers to accommodate the changes.
  • Bring lightweight clothes: While you may be tempted to bring a heavy parka, try bringing clothes that are lightweight and easy to carry – trust me, after hiking for several hours you don’t want to be dealing with the weight of heavy clothes. I have done this in the past (rookie mistake!) and learned the hard way.
  • Ensure clothes are waterproof/windproof: Bring clothes that will help you keep your body dry in case it rains or the temperature drops suddenly. Make sure you have windproof items, as it will make a major difference in warmth. My husband brought a synthetic windproof jacket and a thick wool sweater; he felt the wind cut through the wool sweater but not the synthetic jacket. You will get wet, either from the waterfalls, lakes or rain, so make sure to pack waterproof shoes and pants.
  • Buy the best gear you are able to afford: Good hiking clothes are expensive so plan to use them in multiple trips. Over time, we have bought items that would work just as well in Patagonia or Iceland. Keep in mind that you don’t have to buy the trendy brands, but buy what works well in various outdoor conditions.

Clothes


Thermal socks: Having cold feet when you are in the middle of an adventure can be really unpleasant. But more importantly, keeping your feet warm can help maintain your overall health, since when the temperature drops, your body tends to pull in heat from your extremities -including your hands and feet- to keep the core of your body warm.

Made in Korea, the WILD STAG thermal socks are made with the same materials and technology as the winter thermal socks for the Republic of Korea’s army. These socks show high performance for outdoor sports and activities. Thanks to the highest quality yarns, they help your feet stay warm and dry. I’d also pack some lightweight socks in your backpack in case the temperature swings up on warm days.

Waterproof pants: The North Face Women’s Venture 2 Half-Zip DWR Hiking Pant offers a durable, waterproof outer layer paired with a breathable, polyurethane-coated inner layer that allows water vapor to escape. These pants, which have a 100% windproof fabric, have knee length side zippers on the legs for extra ventilation.

For men, I recommend the North Face Men’s Venture 2 Half Zip Pant, which are made with a waterproof and windproof DryVent shell. They are ultralight, waterproof and windproof pants which have the added benefit of being easily packable. They can be folded into a small self-containing pouch and don’t occupy much space in your luggage.

Waterproof shoes: There is a strong chance that when you visit Patagonia it’s going to be cold, wet, and muddy; so we recommend you bring shoes or boots which will keep your feet warm and dry. The North Face Men’s Chilkat III Insulated Boot and the North Face Shellista II Mid Snow Boot for women are both insulated and waterproof and will help keep your feet dry in the snow and rain. If you bring hiking or trail sneakers, make sure they are waterproof as well.

Lightweight jacket: I recommend the North Face Women’s Metropolis Insulated Parka III. It’s water resistant and insulated. For men you should get a synthetic fleece for the wind, like the North Face’s Gordon Lyons Full Zip Jacket.

Accessories


Gloves: I recommend you bring gloves which are touchscreen compatible so that you don’t need to be removing them every time you want to take a picture. The North Face Etip recycled gloves are a great choice: they keep your hands warm and feature a silicone gripper palm that ensures the days of dropping your phone are over. These gloves are unisex.

Beanie: Don’ forget to bring a beanie if it’s cold. I recommend the North Face Chunky Rib Beanie or the North Face Cozy Chunky Beanie. In addition to offering a soft fabric, their full coverage will keep your head warm in the cold.

Other


Sunscreen: The Supergoop! SPF 40 will help protect your face while you are outside in an area with little to no shade and lots of ice reflection. This sunscreen is oxybenzone- & octinoxate-free and includes clean ingredients that protect your skin.

Chapstick: Keep in mind that the cold can crack your lips. I recommend you bring the EOS organic lip balm to nourish and protect your lips. In Patagonia, the wind will do a number on your lips.

Sunglasses: Do not forget to bring a good pair of sunglasses that provide 100% UVA+B protection as you will spend hours in the Patagonian outdoors, and no one wants to have to be squinting all day long. I recommend O’Neill Offshore polarized sunglasses.

Backpack: The Venture Pal 40L Lightweight Packable Travel Hiking Backpack Daypack weighs only 0.7 pounds, is water-resistant, and can easily fold into its own pocket for easy storage. In addition, its shoulder straps with plentiful sponge padding help relieve the stress from your shoulder.

We are part of several affiliate programs including Amazon and Viator which means that we will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase through the links included in this post.

View from Blanca Patagonia Boutique Inn and Cabins. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Visit El Calafate in Argentina: The gateway to the best attractions

Do not miss the chance to visit El Calafate in Argentina. This town is the perfect base to visit the country’s most beautiful attractions.

Our trip to El Calafate was a mini honeymoon we took immediately after getting married in Uruguay in 2019. We decided that since our closest friends purchased tickets to visit Uruguay, we might as well take the opportunity to travel together.

Therefore, we spent 3 full days in El Calafate, a very charming town strategically located close to the most famous of Patagonia’s attractions – El Chaltén, Torres del Paine National Park and the Perito Moreno glacier.

Just to be clear: 3 days is not enough to experience everything that the region of Patagonia has to offer, nor is it enough to outwit the unpredictable weather. However, we couldn’t take any more days off work, so we had to settle for a short trip; regardless of the time Patagonia is 100% worth a visit.

Given this short timeframe we made it our objective to do and see as much as possible. Below is our fast-paced itinerary, which I recommend if you only have a few days in this region. Keep in mind that we booked tours every single day we were there; and I have to say that all of them were extremely well-organized. I recommend that you spend 5-6 full days, because the weather may impact your experience.

We stayed at the Blanca Patagonia Boutique Inn and Cabins, a small hotel with great lake views. The lobby has large windows and a comfortable ambience that offer the opportunity to sit for hours enjoying the view. The hotel offers free buffet breakfast and free Wi-Fi in public areas. We stayed in one of the adjacent cabins; make sure to ask for extra blankets as the summer evenings can get below freezing.

Day 1: El Calafate

We flew from Montevideo, Uruguay, to El Calafate via Buenos Aires arriving in midafternoon. Since there wasn’t time to book a tour, which are typically an all-day affair, we decided to settle in at the hotel, explore the town, and of course enjoy Argentina’s delicious food, which included eating in a parrilla.

Tip: This region is famous for its Cordero Patagónico, traditionally grilled whole lamb over wood coals. This is a can’t miss dish, with a side of cold beer, or Malbec wine, and some ensalada rusa (potato salad) to reenergize you after a long day out in the parks.  

Day 2: El Chaltén

Hiking in El Chaltén. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Hiking in El Chaltén. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Like I said, tours start early in the morning and take all day; the distances are long, and the rough terrain slows the journey. After being picked up by the tour operator at our hotel, we drove for 3 hours – with a few stops to take some pictures – to reach the town of El Chaltén.

We drove on Route 40, Argentina’s longest road, which has inspired numerous books and songs. Unfortunately, it was cloudy, rainy and very windy – not the best weather conditions to go on hikes and see mountain peaks. This was our biggest let down as we didn’t have a second day to go back and visit. This location is so iconic, that outdoors brand Patagonia uses the Monte Fitz Roy as its logo.

El Chaltén offers a lot of great outdoor activities for all levels – you can go on casual walks, hike/climb up mountains, horseback riding, kayaking, lake fishing and lots more to explore the region’s beautiful scenery.

Offering magnificent views of mountains and glaciers, El Chaltén is perfect for both the inexperienced hiker and the more adventurous type, especially since it is only a few hours from El Calafate. It’s a location you can do in a few hours or stay overnight to experience the striking wilderness. One of the most attractive aspects of the tour we booked is it offers three different hiking options depending on your fitness level and experience.

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Below are a few hikes you can do during a visit to El Chaltén:

Chorrillo Del Salto: Located 4 kms away from El Chaltén, this easy and short trail ends in a beautiful waterfall of more than 20 meters drop. The surrounding landscape is beautiful and in winter, when the temperature drops significantly the waterfall is completely covered in ice.

Mirador del Torre: This viewpoint is located halfway towards Laguna Torre and offers magnificent views of Mount Solo, the Adela range and the Cerro Torre massif. This trail will take you around 3 hours (return trip) to complete.

Laguna Capri: Hiking to Laguna Capri will take you approximately 4 hours and you will be amazed by the magnificent view of the Fitz Roy massif in the background. This is one of the classic photos of El Chaltén. If you are not too tired and have 35 minutes to spare, keep walking until you reach the Mirador del Fitz Roy, a natural rocky viewpoint, where you will be able to bask in the Fitz Roy massif grandeur.

There are also longer hikes, which will take you at least 7-9 hours to complete including Laguna De los Tres, Laguna Torre and Pliegue Tumbado.

There are a few nice quaint pubs where you can get hearty meals and replenish some of the energy lost during the hikes. I had the local version of Argentina’s Locro – a hearty squash and corn stew filled with sausage and chunks of beef or lamb. After a long and chilly hike this was a perfect boost to get through a cold day.

Due to the weather, which happened to be the worst day of our trip, we were not able to see the Fitz Roy but nonetheless, it was a really nice trip. Remember to always allow for a buffer day in case the weather doesn’t cooperate with you.

Day 3: Torres del Paine National Park

Los Cuernos del Paine in the background. Torres del Paine National Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Los Cuernos del Paine in the background. Torres del Paine National Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

The Torres del Paine National park has it all: turquoise lakes, roaring rivers, primordial granite peaks and massive glaciers. Considered the eighth wonder of the world, Torres del Paine offers breathtaking scenery throughout the park, which will make you evaluate your place in the world. I felt incredibly unimportant surrounded by mother nature’s vastness.

The national park offers several hiking trails for both beginners and advance hikers; hikes can be a few hours to long multiday experiences. The most popular hikes are the W Trek which takes 4-5 days to complete and also the O Circuit which will take you around 7-9 days. For those who are up to the challenge, you will surely be rewarded with many magnificent views!

This tour was the longest of the three we booked during this trip, however it was also the shortest option in getting to Torres del Paine. We were picked up at 7:00 am and got back to our hotel at 9:00 pm. This tour allowed us to cut across some of the roughest terrain in the region instead of going around the mountain range; allowing for a shorter ride.

The company we used has special 4X4 tank looking trucks which can go through the rocky landscape almost as if was asphalt. This reduces the travel time by 200 kms, which equals to 2 hours less of travel time than the conventional excursion. It ended up being a very long day, but the experience made this tour totally worth it. If you are short for time, like we were, do not hesitate to book a full day to the Torres del Paine.

Tip: Dress in layers and warmly because there is a drastic change in weather throughout the park. It can go from freezing cold and windy, even in the summer, to really warm in a matter of hours.  

The Torres del Paine National Park is located 300 kms south of El Calafate. To get from El Calafate to Torres del Paine will take approximately 3-5 hours depending on the tour. However, and this is a big however, the time you spend crossing the border can make the trip much longer.

The weather did not cooperate with us again, but we had decent timing. It was extremely cold, with constant drizzle, and low clouds threatening the views of the mountains. We were fortunate enough to see part of the Cuernos del Paine, as the rain stopped, and many clouds burned out. However, we couldn’t see the Towers of Paine. Even during a gloomy day the beauty of this national park is unquestionable, and we have some very mystical photos of the park in this weather.

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Our tour allowed us to stop at the following attractions:

Salto Grande waterfall: Salto Grande is the biggest waterfall of the Paine river, and you can reach it after hiking for 50 minutes. The path to the waterfall shows the ravages of a fire which occurred a few years ago and damaged the landscape.

Paine waterfall: Famous for its rock formations, this waterfall is also located on the Paine river. This location offers a beautiful view of the Torres del Paine in the background if the weather cooperates with you. It’s a perfect spot to have a picnic while you enjoy the view.

Nordenskjold Lake lookout: This lookout offers amazing views of the French Valley and the Cuernos, looking over the Nordenskjold lake.

Laguna Amarga: The Laguna Amarga offers a great location to photograph the Torres del Paine. During summer, a colony of flamingoes vacations here. The name of this lagoon derives from the bitter taste of its waters.

Cove: After our hike to the Salto Grande waterfall we stopped by a really nice cove with black sand. There is also a great view of the Cuernos del Paine from this location.

Day 4: Perito Moreno Glacier

Perito Moreno glacier: Los Glaciares National Park’s awe-inspiring wonder. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Perito Moreno glacier: Los Glaciares National Park’s awe-inspiring wonder. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

After marveling at the majestic of the Torres del Paine national park, I was certain that nothing could top that. But I was wrong and very lucky with the weather – a perfect sunny day. The Perito Moreno glacier left me as utterly speechless as when I first arrived at Torres del Paine.

Getting to Perito Moreno only took us 1 hour and 30 minutes from El Calafate, which was a relief since we had spent too much time on the road the previous day.

There are plenty of activities you can do when you arrive at the Perito Moreno glacier. But there is one specifically that I highly recommend, and it’s trekking on the glacier surface. I know this tour can be pretty expensive, as you will need to pay extra for the trek, but it’s totally worth it. This was one of the most unforgettable experiences of my life and the scenery from the hike is etched into my memory.

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Tip: The trekking excursion must be booked in advance so plan accordingly.

After a short boat ride through the Lago Argentino to the shores of the glacier, you will get a quick safety course and have crampons strapped on to your feet. Once you are ready for the glacier, the whole trek takes about an hour and a half. You will get the chance to see the glacier up close (looking like a massive ice wall), and marvel at ice formations, ice canyons, glacier mills, small ponds, and spooky caves. There is also a longer tour available where you spend more time trekking or can camp on the ice.

Read blog: Perito Moreno glacier: Los Glaciares National Park’s awe-inspiring natural wonder.

Alternative tours include kayaking; you will experience the glacier at water-level and meander by the fallen ice blocks. There is also a full hour boat excursion for a more relaxed experience around the lake.

Additionally, do not miss walking on the catwalks (Pasarelas) which will give you the chance to view the glacier from above and enjoy various vantage points. From the catwalks you can also witness the famous calving of the glacier – when large chunks of the glacier crash into the water. Even if you don’t see it, you’ll hear the thunderous cracking of a whip each time the ice breaks off.

Day 5: Fly home

And enjoy the post-travel activities including printing your best pictures and preparing your travel books.

We are part of several affiliate programs including Amazon and Viator which means that we will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase through the links included in this post.

Perito Moreno glacier: Los Glaciares National Park’s awe-inspiring wonder. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Perito Moreno glacier: Los Glaciares National Park’s awe-inspiring wonder

Visit the Perito Moreno glacier, Los Glaciares National Park’s awe-inspiring natural wonder.

There are only a few places in the world which have taken my breath away – and one of them is the Perito Moreno glacier. This glacier is undoubtedly one of the most popular attractions in Argentina and draws thousands of visitors every year from every corner of the world to marvel at one of nature’s most perfect creations.

Located approximately an hour and a half from the town of El Calafate in southern Patagonia, a visit to the Perito Moreno is not only a must do, but it will be a life changing experience.

Keep in mind that everything you have seen in travel websites, magazines, and TV shows, will not prepare you for the intense, overwhelming, awe you’ll feel when you first lay eyes on the glacier. There is simply no picture that can do justice to the immense beauty of the Perito Moreno glacier. If you have ever watched Game of Thrones, you’ll understand how Jon Snow felt when he saw the Wall for the first time – it is an indescribable feeling of nature’s power. You have to go, you have to live it, and you have to breath it, to really take it in.

And you will not only be able to absorb its beauty with your eyes, but also with your ears, as thundering sound erupts every time large chunks of ice from the glacier crash into the milky waters and then idly drift away. This is as unforgettable as it gets.

When to visit

You can visit the Perito Moreno glacier at any time, but it’s best to visit during the summer season (December-March) as you won’t need to brave too much snow. If the day is clear, you will have a chance to see how the light plays off the glacier like a kaleidoscope – different shades of blue dance about the glacier. The sun is at its peak during the high season, so you will have a great chance to witness the calving of the ice which is an experience that will linger in your mind for years.

Keep in mind that the weather is unpredictable throughout southern Patagonia, so I recommend you have a buffer day in case the weather doesn’t cooperate. If you don’t you will miss out on seeing the sites at their best.

Interesting facts about the Perito Moreno glacier

The spectacular Perito Moreno glacier. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
The spectacular Perito Moreno glacier. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

It’s size: The Perito Moreno sits within the unspoiled waters of the Lago Argentino and has a 254 square kilometers surface area, making it one of the largest glaciers of the Los Glaciares region. It is 30 km long, 5 km wide, and 730 meters thick at its deepest point.

It’s stability: Unlike most of the glaciers which are retreating due to global warming, the Perito Moreno glacier keeps expanding and moves forward approximately 2.5 meters per day. It also loses a proportional amount of mass every day, which ensures the glacier is “in balance”. Its surface, width and length have remained largely the same since 1971.

It’s easily accessible: Very few glaciers are as accessible and safe as the Perito Moreno. You can enjoy the glacier from different perspectives: from the catwalks, by boat or kayak, and even join one of the tours to walk on its surface.

It’s purity: The Perito Moreno is one of many glaciers that are part of the Los Glaciares National Park founded in 1937. All of these glaciers form the Patagonian continental ice which is one of the largest drinking water sources in the world.

What to do

We booked an excursion which took us from El Calafate to the glacier. After a few cloudy days, we got lucky with a perfect sunny day to motivate us on the hike on top of the glacier.

There are several activities you can do when visiting the Perito Moreno glacier. We decided to walk on the catwalks and pay extra for the trek on the glacier’s surface. However, regardless of which option you choose, the experience will be forever embedded in your mind. This is truly one of the natural wonders of the world.

Walk on the catwalks (Pasarelas): This is the classical tour which offers visitors the chance to see the glacier from above. With a length of 4.7 kms, the catwalks provide several vantage points where you can enjoy the full majesty of the Perito Moreno glacier.

Perito Moreno Glacier. Patagonia. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Perito Moreno Glacier. Patagonia. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

From here, you can also witness the famous calving of the glacier – when large chunks of the glacier crash into the water. Pay close attention because it will happen within only a couple of seconds and if you are not looking towards the glacier you can easily miss it.

Tip: If you time your trip, you will also see the melting of the ice bridge which forms in winter.

There are three circuits along the catwalks providing different trails and perspectives of the glacier. The most popular ones are packed, so keep in mind you may need to wait a while.

There are a few benches which are sparsely located, so we took the opportunity to have a picnic lunch with a million-dollar view. As we ate, we could hear the thunder of the ice falling and see the reflecting hues of blue flicker along the ice. Our lunch was included in the tour package, and it was delicious (my husband’s favorite: milanesa sandwiches), but there is also a cafeteria available at this location where you can get something to eat and go to the bathroom. If you bring your mate, you will have a hot water refill station in the cafeteria area.

There is also a gift shop for souvenirs, but my husband, overcome with the thought of eating milanesas, forgot his wool hat and gloves – two major items you will need for this trip – and was able to get some at the shop.

Go kayaking: Paddle the icy waters of the Lago Argentino towards the glacier to experience it at water-level, which will give you a whole different level of appreciation for the glacier’s magnitude. Take the opportunity to enjoy the immense silence all around you which is only interrupted by the roar of falling ice blocks.

Perito Moreno Glacier. Patagonia. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Perito Moreno Glacier. Patagonia. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Go trekking: Trekking on the Perito Moreno surface is the most first-hand way of experiencing the glacier – and the most unforgettable in my opinion. Keep in mind that only guided tours are allowed to trek on the ice so you should book your excursion in advance and the cost is extra.

As part of this tour, you’ll walk to docks on the lake to take a boat ride in order to get to the glacier. When we got to our destination, we broke up into groups with two personal guides, got the safety rundown and then we strapped on the crampons to walk on the ice. It’s approximately a 1:30 hour walk on the glacier. During the hike you’ll see a wide variety of ice formations, valleys, cracks that look like canyons, glacier mills, small ponds and scary ice caves.

The best part is at the end – when you celebrate this accomplishment by drinking whiskey, with ice from the glacier, and snack on some chocolate all while you stand on the surface of the ice! The trekking difficulty is moderate and is easier once you get used to walking on the ice (there is a specific way to walk with crampons). There are alternative, more advanced, excursions where you will trek for over 3 hours.

Take a boat tour: For a different perspective of this impressive glacier, you can take a 1-hour boat ride around the lake. Watch closely to see slabs of ice detach from the glacier and crash into the surrounding lake.

Amazing landscape surrounding the Perito Moreno glacier. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Amazing landscape surrounding the Perito Moreno glacier. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Where to stay

There are plenty of accommodations in the nearby town of El Calafate. I stayed at the Blanca Patagonia Boutique Inn and Cabins and highly recommend it. It’s a small but very charming hotel offering 17 rooms with great lake views, and cute cabins. The hotel offers free buffet breakfast and free Wi-Fi in public areas.

What to pack

Here are a few clothes and accessories you should bring with you – but remember to layer up as the day will go from cold to hot to very windy to rainy all in a matter of hours:

Comfortable and warm shoes: Bring warm shoes and socks since you will be walking and enjoying the glacier outdoors. Remember that you might be going up and down stairs when you are in the catwalks so you may want to bring shoes that are comfortable and don’t cause blisters. I recommend the North Face Men’s Chilkat III Insulated Boot and the North Face Shellista II Mid Snow Boot for women.

Lightweight jacket: Depending on when you visit the Perito Moreno glacier you might want to bring a warmer jacket. I recommend the North Face Women’s Metropolis Insulated Parka III. It’s water resistant and insulated. For men you should get a synthetic fleece for the wind, like the North Face’s Gordon Lyons Full Zip Jacket.

Gloves: I recommend the North Face Etip recycled gloves which in addition to ensuring you keep your hands warm; they are touchscreen compatible, so you won’t need to remove them every time that you want to take a picture – which, believe me, will happen very frequently.

Sunscreen: Protect your skin -especially your face- as you will be outside for most of the day and there will be hardly in shade. I recommend Supergoop! SPF 40 for your face.

Sunglasses: A good pair of sunglasses is key as the reflection of the sun on the ice can hurt your eyes and you also want to avoid having to squint all the time. The O’Neill Offshore polarized sunglasses offer glare-free vision, optimal visual acuity and 100% UVA+B protection.

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