South America & The Caribbean

View from Blanca Patagonia Boutique Inn and Cabins. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Visit El Calafate in Argentina: The gateway to the best attractions

Written by Caro on April 5, 2021. Posted in Argentina, Chile, South America & The Caribbean. No Comments on Visit El Calafate in Argentina: The gateway to the best attractions

Do not miss the chance to visit El Calafate in Argentina. This town is the perfect base to visit the country’s most beautiful attractions.

Our trip to El Calafate was a mini honeymoon we took immediately after getting married in Uruguay in 2019. We decided that since our closest friends purchased tickets to visit Uruguay, we might as well take the opportunity to travel together.

Therefore, we spent 3 full days in El Calafate, a very charming town strategically located close to the most famous of Patagonia’s attractions – El Chaltén, Torres del Paine National Park and the Perito Moreno glacier.

Just to be clear: 3 days is not enough to experience everything that the region of Patagonia has to offer, nor is it enough to outwit the unpredictable weather. However, we couldn’t take any more days off work, so we had to settle for a short trip; regardless of the time Patagonia is 100% worth a visit.

Given this short timeframe we made it our objective to do and see as much as possible. Below is our fast-paced itinerary, which I recommend if you only have a few days in this region. Keep in mind that we booked tours every single day we were there; and I have to say that all of them were extremely well-organized. I recommend that you spend 5-6 full days, because the weather may impact your experience.

We stayed at the Blanca Patagonia Boutique Inn and Cabins, a small hotel with great lake views. The lobby has large windows and a comfortable ambience that offer the opportunity to sit for hours enjoying the view. The hotel offers free buffet breakfast and free Wi-Fi in public areas. We stayed in one of the adjacent cabins; make sure to ask for extra blankets as the summer evenings can get below freezing.

Day 1: El Calafate

We flew from Montevideo, Uruguay, to El Calafate via Buenos Aires arriving in midafternoon. Since there wasn’t time to book a tour, which are typically an all-day affair, we decided to settle in at the hotel, explore the town, and of course enjoy Argentina’s delicious food, which included eating in a parrilla.

Tip: This region is famous for its Cordero Patagónico, traditionally grilled whole lamb over wood coals. This is a can’t miss dish, with a side of cold beer, or Malbec wine, and some ensalada rusa (potato salad) to reenergize you after a long day out in the parks.

Day 2: El Chaltén

Hiking in El Chaltén. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Like I said, tours start early in the morning and take all day; the distances are long, and the rough terrain slows the journey. After being picked up by the tour operator at our hotel, we drove for 3 hours – with a few stops to take some pictures – to reach the town of El Chaltén.

We drove on Route 40, Argentina’s longest road, which has inspired numerous books and songs. Unfortunately, it was cloudy, rainy and very windy – not the best weather conditions to go on hikes and see mountain peaks. This was our biggest let down as we didn’t have a second day to go back and visit. This location is so iconic, that outdoors brand Patagonia uses the Monte Fitz Roy as its logo.

El Chaltén offers a lot of great outdoor activities for all levels – you can go on casual walks, hike/climb up mountains, horseback riding, kayaking, lake fishing and lots more to explore the region’s beautiful scenery.

Offering magnificent views of mountains and glaciers, El Chaltén is perfect for both the inexperienced hiker and the more adventurous type, especially since it is only a few hours from El Calafate. It’s a location you can do in a few hours or stay overnight to experience the striking wilderness. One of the most attractive aspects of the tour we booked is it offers three different hiking options depending on your fitness level and experience.

Below are a few hikes you can do during a visit to El Chaltén:

Chorrillo Del Salto: Located 4 kms away from El Chaltén, this easy and short trail ends in a beautiful waterfall of more than 20 meters drop. The surrounding landscape is beautiful and in winter, when the temperature drops significantly the waterfall is completely covered in ice.

Mirador del Torre: This viewpoint is located halfway towards Laguna Torre and offers magnificent views of Mount Solo, the Adela range and the Cerro Torre massif. This trail will take you around 3 hours (return trip) to complete.

Laguna Capri: Hiking to Laguna Capri will take you approximately 4 hours and you will be amazed by the magnificent view of the Fitz Roy massif in the background. This is one of the classic photos of El Chaltén. If you are not too tired and have 35 minutes to spare, keep walking until you reach the Mirador del Fitz Roy, a natural rocky viewpoint, where you will be able to bask in the Fitz Roy massif grandeur.

There are also longer hikes, which will take you at least 7-9 hours to complete including Laguna De los Tres, Laguna Torre and Pliegue Tumbado.

There are a few nice quaint pubs where you can get hearty meals and replenish some of the energy lost during the hikes. I had the local version of Argentina’s Locro – a hearty squash and corn stew filled with sausage and chunks of beef or lamb. After a long and chilly hike this was a perfect boost to get through a cold day.

Due to the weather, which happened to be the worst day of our trip, we were not able to see the Fitz Roy but nonetheless, it was a really nice trip. Remember to always allow for a buffer day in case the weather doesn’t cooperate with you.

Day 3: Torres del Paine National Park

Los Cuernos del Paine in the background. Torres del Paine National Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

The Torres del Paine National park has it all: turquoise lakes, roaring rivers, primordial granite peaks and massive glaciers. Considered the eighth wonder of the world, Torres del Paine offers breathtaking scenery throughout the park, which will make you evaluate your place in the world. I felt incredibly unimportant surrounded by mother nature’s vastness.

The national park offers several hiking trails for both beginners and advance hikers; hikes can be a few hours to long multiday experiences. The most popular hikes are the W Trek which takes 4-5 days to complete and also the O Circuit which will take you around 7-9 days. For those who are up to the challenge, you will surely be rewarded with many magnificent views!

This tour was the longest of the three we booked during this trip, however it was also the shortest option in getting to Torres del Paine. We were picked up at 7:00 am and got back to our hotel at 9:00 pm. This tour allowed us to cut across some of the roughest terrain in the region instead of going around the mountain range; allowing for a shorter ride.

The company we used has special 4X4 tank looking trucks which can go through the rocky landscape almost as if was asphalt. This reduces the travel time by 200 kms, which equals to 2 hours less of travel time than the conventional excursion. It ended up being a very long day, but the experience made this tour totally worth it. If you are short for time, like we were, do not hesitate to book a full day to the Torres del Paine.

Tip: Dress in layers and warmly because there is a drastic change in weather throughout the park. It can go from freezing cold and windy, even in the summer, to really warm in a matter of hours.

The Torres del Paine National Park is located 300 kms south of El Calafate. To get from El Calafate to Torres del Paine will take approximately 3-5 hours depending on the tour. However, and this is a big however, the time you spend crossing the border can make the trip much longer.

The weather did not cooperate with us again, but we had decent timing. It was extremely cold, with constant drizzle, and low clouds threatening the views of the mountains. We were fortunate enough to see part of the Cuernos del Paine, as the rain stopped, and many clouds burned out. However, we couldn’t see the Towers of Paine. Even during a gloomy day the beauty of this national park is unquestionable, and we have some very mystical photos of the park in this weather.

Our tour allowed us to stop at the following attractions:

Salto Grande waterfall: Salto Grande is the biggest waterfall of the Paine river, and you can reach it after hiking for 50 minutes. The path to the waterfall shows the ravages of a fire which occurred a few years ago and damaged the landscape.

Paine waterfall: Famous for its rock formations, this waterfall is also located on the Paine river. This location offers a beautiful view of the Torres del Paine in the background if the weather cooperates with you. It’s a perfect spot to have a picnic while you enjoy the view.

Nordenskjold Lake lookout: This lookout offers amazing views of the French Valley and the Cuernos, looking over the Nordenskjold lake.

Laguna Amarga: The Laguna Amarga offers a great location to photograph the Torres del Paine. During summer, a colony of flamingoes vacations here. The name of this lagoon derives from the bitter taste of its waters.

Cove: After our hike to the Salto Grande waterfall we stopped by a really nice cove with black sand. There is also a great view of the Cuernos del Paine from this location.

Day 4: Perito Moreno Glacier

Perito Moreno glacier: Los Glaciares National Park’s awe-inspiring wonder. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

After marveling at the majestic of the Torres del Paine national park, I was certain that nothing could top that. But I was wrong and very lucky with the weather – a perfect sunny day. The Perito Moreno glacier left me as utterly speechless as when I first arrived at Torres del Paine.

Getting to Perito Moreno only took us 1 hour and 30 minutes from El Calafate, which was a relief since we had spent too much time on the road the previous day.

There are plenty of activities you can do when you arrive at the Perito Moreno glacier. But there is one specifically that I highly recommend, and it’s trekking on the glacier surface. I know this tour can be pretty expensive, as you will need to pay extra for the trek, but it’s totally worth it. This was one of the most unforgettable experiences of my life and the scenery from the hike is etched into my memory.

Tip: The trekking excursion must be booked in advance so plan accordingly.

After a short boat ride through the Lago Argentino to the shores of the glacier, you will get a quick safety course and have crampons strapped on to your feet. Once you are ready for the glacier, the whole trek takes about an hour and a half. You will get the chance to see the glacier up close (looking like a massive ice wall), and marvel at ice formations, ice canyons, glacier mills, small ponds, and spooky caves. There is also a longer tour available where you spend more time trekking or can camp on the ice.

Read blog: Perito Moreno glacier: Los Glaciares National Park’s awe-inspiring natural wonder.

Alternative tours include kayaking; you will experience the glacier at water-level and meander by the fallen ice blocks. There is also a full hour boat excursion for a more relaxed experience around the lake.

Additionally, do not miss walking on the catwalks (Pasarelas) which will give you the chance to view the glacier from above and enjoy various vantage points. From the catwalks you can also witness the famous calving of the glacier – when large chunks of the glacier crash into the water. Even if you don’t see it, you’ll hear the thunderous cracking of a whip each time the ice breaks off.

Day 5: Fly home

And enjoy the post-travel activities including printing your best pictures and preparing your travel books.

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Torres del Paine National Park full day tour: Is it worth it?

Written by Caro on March 29, 2021. Posted in Chile, South America & The Caribbean. 2 Comments on Torres del Paine National Park full day tour: Is it worth it?

A Torres del Paine National Park full day tour can be intense but well worth it. Find out why.

The Torres del Paine National Park offers jaw-dropping landscapes everywhere you go so it’s not surprising that it’s considered the eighth wonder of the world.

With turquoise lakes, roaring rivers, distinctive granite peaks and glaciers, people spend several days at this location taking in its beauty – you can set up camp or stay at one of the few hotels on site. The national park is a hiker’s dream as there are many trails available to enjoy beautiful views all around that can take several days to complete.

We visited the Torres del Paine National Park for a day trip as part of a short visit to El Calafate, Argentina, where we spent three full days. The day trip to Torres del Paine National Park was quite long: we were picked up at 7:00 am at our hotel and were back by 9:00 pm.

I have to confess that before booking this tour I wasn’t 100% convinced that it was a good idea, given the fact that it involved a lot of hours on the road. However, after seeing pictures of the Torres del Paine National Park, there was no way I would miss it.

Let me stress that one day in Torres del Paine is not enough – it will only allow you to scratch the surface of this magnificent national park. But if you are in Patagonia, and are especially pressed for time, going for a day visit is very much worth it. This is absolutely a “can’t miss” stop in southern Patagonia.

Getting to Torres del Paine

The Torres del Paine National Park is located 300 kms south of El Calafate, across the Argentine border into Chile. The shortest driving distance is approximately 3 hours across some rough terrain, but this doesn’t include the time you spend at customs, when you cross the border. Fortunately, we lucked out as it only took us around an hour, but the tour guide mentioned that it can take up to several hours at times.

We mentioned the rough terrain on the shorter drive, and if your stomach can handle the bumpy road, this is the best option. The traditional drive is much longer as you go around the lower part of the mountain range. Thanks to the 4X4 vehicles (more like tanks than trucks) used by our tour company, we could traverse the rocky road “almost” as if it was asphalt. The good news is the travel time gets reduced by 200 kms, which equals to 2+ hours less than the conventional excursion.

We visited Torres del Paine in early March (think the first week of September in the Northern Hemisphere), and it was extremely cold and windy – especially in the early morning. Thankfully, we had packed warm clothes and the appropriate gear (more on that later on the blog). It was a cloudy day and with rain falling off and on. However, this didn’t prevent us from appreciating the beauty of the national park. As you will see the weather lent a mystical ambience to the day, with just enough break in the clouds.

Read blog: Perito Moreno glacier: Los Glaciares National Park’s awe-inspiring wonder

Tip: When you visit national parks you are always at the mercy of the weather, so add a buffer day in case the weather doesn’t cooperate with you.

Key attractions

Here are a few of the attractions that we visited during our tour:

Paine waterfall: The waterfall is quite remarkable because of its strange rock formations. This waterfall is located on the Paine river, and if the weather cooperates, you will be able to see the impressive Towers of Paine from this location. Unfortunately, we weren’t that lucky. After spending some time enjoying the beauty of the waterfall, we tried to have an outdoor lunch at this spot. As it was extremely cold, I chose to eat inside the bus, but there are picnic tables available that allow you to eat with a view.

Salto Grande waterfall: You can reach this waterfall after a 50-minute easy hike – which was a great thing to do after having to sit for most of the day. As you walk towards the waterfall you will be shocked by the landscape that still suffers from the ravages of a fire which occurred a few years ago – you’ll see charred ghostly trees dotting the park. However, it’s still a nice hike with beautiful views, and the damaged trees add a sense of “other worldliness” to the trek. The Salto Grande waterfall is the biggest of the Paine River and is surrounded by green vegetation all around.

Torres del Paine National Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Laguna Amarga: The name of this lagoon derives from the bitter taste of its waters. Its high concentration of salt content evaporates and leaves a soft white foam on the riverbank. During summer, a colony of flamingos vacations on the lagoon’s shores. The Laguna Amarga offers a really cool viewpoint to photograph the Towers of Paine.

Pehoe Lake: This is a great spot to observe the Cuernos del Paine. If you are extremely lucky, you will also be able to see the mountains reflecting on the lake – a true spectacle. You can cross the lake (it will take around 30 minutes) by boat, which it’s something many trekkers do during the popular W and Paine Massif hiking circuits.

The stunning Torres del Paine National Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Tip: there is a great photo op from the bridge that leads to Hostería Pehoe. Do not miss this opportunity as the view of the Cuernos del Paine from the lake is stunning.

Nordenskjold Lake lookout: This lookout offers amazing views of the French Valley and the Cuernos del Paine, looking over the Nordenskjold lake.

Cove: During our tour, we had the opportunity to visit a distinctive cove with black sand, turquoise waters, and bleached tree trunks. The contrast of colors, with the grey skies made the stop an unexpected wonder. There is also a great view of the Cuernos del Paine from here.

Watch for cute guanacos (a cousin of the llama, but don’t get too close because they might spit on you) and also for condors soaring alongside the peaks.

Beautiful cove with Los Cuernos in the background. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

What to bring:

I put together a list of items that you should bring with you if you visit Torres del Paine for a day. Rather than listing the obvious things, I have focused on what may be overlooked for the casual tourist.

Sunscreen: Protect your skin as you will be hiking for hours and there won’t be any shade. I recommend Supergoop! SPF 40 for your face, an antioxidant-rich facial sunscreen which helps protect your skin from UVA, UVB & IRA rays.

Sunglasses: Bring a good pair of sunglasses that provide 100% UVA+B protection. There is a constant glare that breaks through the clouds, and you don’t want to miss a moment of what the park offers. I recommend O’Neill Offshore polarized sunglasses.

Waterproof shoes: There is a strong chance that when you visit Torres del Paine it’s going to be cold, wet, and muddy; so bring shoes/boots which will keep your feet warm and dry. I recommend the North Face Men’s Chilkat III Insulated Boot and the North Face Shellista II Mid Snow Boot for women.

Gloves: Because you will be taking photos non-stop (trust me!) I recommend you bring gloves which are touchscreen compatible. The North Face Etip recycled gloves are a great choice, and they will keep your hands warm.

Waterproof/Windproof pants: I recommend these pants for hiking in Patagonia:

The North Face Women’s Venture 2 Half-Zip Waterproof Hiking Pant The North Face Men’s Venture 2 Half-Zip Waterproof Hiking Pant

Lightweight jacket: I recommend the North Face Women’s Metropolis Insulated Parka III. It’s water resistant and insulated. For men you should get a synthetic fleece for the wind, like the North Face’s Gordon Lyons Full Zip Jacket.

Where to stay

The nearby town of El Calafate offers plenty of accommodations. We chose to stay at the Blanca Patagonia Boutique Inn and Cabins and highly recommend it. It’s a small and charming hotel which offers 17 rooms with great lake views. The hotel also offers free buffet breakfast and free Wi-Fi in public areas.

For the best view of the Cuernos del Paine, you can also stay at the park in Hostería Pehoe situated on lake Pehoe or bring camping gear for those who want an extended stay.

Final thoughts

Overall, the day tour was unforgettable, and we were astonished by the unparalleled beauty of the Torres del Paine National Park. Yes – a full day tour is extremely exhausting (except for those who can sleep anywhere) but nonetheless totally worth it. I will definitely do it again whenever I get another chance…and hopefully I convinced you to do the same!

Perito Moreno glacier: Los Glaciares National Park’s awe-inspiring wonder

Written by Caro on March 25, 2021. Posted in Argentina, South America & The Caribbean. 8 Comments on Perito Moreno glacier: Los Glaciares National Park’s awe-inspiring wonder

Visit the Perito Moreno glacier, Los Glaciares National Park’s awe-inspiring natural wonder.

There are only a few places in the world which have taken my breath away – and one of them is the Perito Moreno glacier. This glacier is undoubtedly one of the most popular attractions in Argentina and draws thousands of visitors every year from every corner of the world to marvel at one of nature’s most perfect creations.

Located approximately an hour and a half from the town of El Calafate in southern Patagonia, a visit to the Perito Moreno is not only a must do, but it will be a life changing experience.

Keep in mind that everything you have seen in travel websites, magazines, and TV shows, will not prepare you for the intense, overwhelming, awe you’ll feel when you first lay eyes on the glacier. There is simply no picture that can do justice to the immense beauty of the Perito Moreno glacier. If you have ever watched Game of Thrones, you’ll understand how Jon Snow felt when he saw the Wall for the first time – it is an indescribable feeling of nature’s power. You have to go, you have to live it, and you have to breath it, to really take it in.

And you will not only be able to absorb its beauty with your eyes, but also with your ears, as thundering sound erupts every time large chunks of ice from the glacier crash into the milky waters and then idly drift away. This is as unforgettable as it gets.

When to visit

You can visit the Perito Moreno glacier at any time, but it’s best to visit during the summer season (December-March) as you won’t need to brave too much snow. If the day is clear, you will have a chance to see how the light plays off the glacier like a kaleidoscope – different shades of blue dance about the glacier. The sun is at its peak during the high season, so you will have a great chance to witness the calving of the ice which is an experience that will linger in your mind for years.

Keep in mind that the weather is unpredictable throughout southern Patagonia, so I recommend you have a buffer day in case the weather doesn’t cooperate. If you don’t you will miss out on seeing the sites at their best.

Interesting facts about the Perito Moreno glacier

The spectacular Perito Moreno glacier. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

It’s size: The Perito Moreno sits within the unspoiled waters of the Lago Argentino and has a 254 square kilometers surface area, making it one of the largest glaciers of the Los Glaciares region. It is 30 km long, 5 km wide, and 730 meters thick at its deepest point.

It’s stability: Unlike most of the glaciers which are retreating due to global warming, the Perito Moreno glacier keeps expanding and moves forward approximately 2.5 meters per day. It also loses a proportional amount of mass every day, which ensures the glacier is “in balance”. Its surface, width and length have remained largely the same since 1971.

It’s easily accessible: Very few glaciers are as accessible and safe as the Perito Moreno. You can enjoy the glacier from different perspectives: from the catwalks, by boat or kayak, and even join one of the tours to walk on its surface.

It’s purity: The Perito Moreno is one of many glaciers that are part of the Los Glaciares National Park founded in 1937. All of these glaciers form the Patagonian continental ice which is one of the largest drinking water sources in the world.

What to do

We booked an excursion which took us from El Calafate to the glacier. After a few cloudy days, we got lucky with a perfect sunny day to motivate us on the hike on top of the glacier.

There are several activities you can do when visiting the Perito Moreno glacier. We decided to walk on the catwalks and pay extra for the trek on the glacier’s surface. However, regardless of which option you choose, the experience will be forever embedded in your mind. This is truly one of the natural wonders of the world.

Walk on the catwalks (Pasarelas): This is the classical tour which offers visitors the chance to see the glacier from above. With a length of 4.7 kms, the catwalks provide several vantage points where you can enjoy the full majesty of the Perito Moreno glacier.

Perito Moreno Glacier. Patagonia. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

From here, you can also witness the famous calving of the glacier – when large chunks of the glacier crash into the water. Pay close attention because it will happen within only a couple of seconds and if you are not looking towards the glacier you can easily miss it.

Tip: If you time your trip, you will also see the melting of the ice bridge which forms in winter.

There are three circuits along the catwalks providing different trails and perspectives of the glacier. The most popular ones are packed, so keep in mind you may need to wait a while.

There are a few benches which are sparsely located, so we took the opportunity to have a picnic lunch with a million-dollar view. As we ate, we could hear the thunder of the ice falling and see the reflecting hues of blue flicker along the ice. Our lunch was included in the tour package, and it was delicious (my husband’s favorite: milanesa sandwiches), but there is also a cafeteria available at this location where you can get something to eat and go to the bathroom. If you bring your mate, you will have a hot water refill station in the cafeteria area.

There is also a gift shop for souvenirs, but my husband, overcome with the thought of eating milanesas, forgot his wool hat and gloves – two major items you will need for this trip – and was able to get some at the shop.

Go kayaking: Paddle the icy waters of the Lago Argentino towards the glacier to experience it at water-level, which will give you a whole different level of appreciation for the glacier’s magnitude. Take the opportunity to enjoy the immense silence all around you which is only interrupted by the roar of falling ice blocks.

Go trekking: Trekking on the Perito Moreno surface is the most first-hand way of experiencing the glacier – and the most unforgettable in my opinion. Keep in mind that only guided tours are allowed to trek on the ice so you should book your excursion in advance and the cost is extra.

As part of this tour, you’ll walk to docks on the lake to take a boat ride in order to get to the glacier. When we got to our destination, we broke up into groups with two personal guides, got the safety rundown and then we strapped on the crampons to walk on the ice. It’s approximately a 1:30 hour walk on the glacier. During the hike you’ll see a wide variety of ice formations, valleys, cracks that look like canyons, glacier mills, small ponds and scary ice caves.

The best part is at the end – when you celebrate this accomplishment by drinking whiskey, with ice from the glacier, and snack on some chocolate all while you stand on the surface of the ice! The trekking difficulty is moderate and is easier once you get used to walking on the ice (there is a specific way to walk with crampons). There are alternative, more advanced, excursions where you will trek for over 3 hours.

Take a boat tour: For a different perspective of this impressive glacier, you can take a 1-hour boat ride around the lake. Watch closely to see slabs of ice detach from the glacier and crash into the surrounding lake.

Amazing landscape surrounding the Perito Moreno glacier. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Where to stay

There are plenty of accommodations in the nearby town of El Calafate. I stayed at the Blanca Patagonia Boutique Inn and Cabins and highly recommend it. It’s a small but very charming hotel offering 17 rooms with great lake views, and cute cabins. The hotel offers free buffet breakfast and free Wi-Fi in public areas.

What to pack

Here are a few clothes and accessories you should bring with you – but remember to layer up as the day will go from cold to hot to very windy to rainy all in a matter of hours:

Comfortable and warm shoes: Bring warm shoes and socks since you will be walking and enjoying the glacier outdoors. Remember that you might be going up and down stairs when you are in the catwalks so you may want to bring shoes that are comfortable and don’t cause blisters. I recommend the North Face Men’s Chilkat III Insulated Boot and the North Face Shellista II Mid Snow Boot for women.

Lightweight jacket: Depending on when you visit the Perito Moreno glacier you might want to bring a warmer jacket. I recommend the North Face Women’s Metropolis Insulated Parka III. It’s water resistant and insulated. For men you should get a synthetic fleece for the wind, like the North Face’s Gordon Lyons Full Zip Jacket.

Gloves: I recommend the North Face Etip recycled gloves which in addition to ensuring you keep your hands warm; they are touchscreen compatible, so you won’t need to remove them every time that you want to take a picture – which, believe me, will happen very frequently.

Sunscreen: Protect your skin -especially your face- as you will be outside for most of the day and there will be hardly in shade. I recommend Supergoop! SPF 40 for your face.

Sunglasses: A good pair of sunglasses is key as the reflection of the sun on the ice can hurt your eyes and you also want to avoid having to squint all the time. The O’Neill Offshore polarized sunglasses offer glare-free vision, optimal visual acuity and 100% UVA+B protection.

View towards the village. Credit: Niki Biller

Cabo Polonio in Uruguay: A one-of-a-kind beach paradise

Written by Caro on March 22, 2021. Posted in South America & The Caribbean, Uruguay. 4 Comments on Cabo Polonio in Uruguay: A one-of-a-kind beach paradise

Located off the beaten path, Cabo Polonio in Uruguay is a paradise for those looking to unplug.

Picture a town where there is no electricity, no running water, and unpaved roads. A tiny hamlet surrounded by primordial dunes and stunning beaches in a virtually untouched landscape. For many of us in the digital age, it’s hard to imagine a town like this exists today. But it does, and it’s called Cabo Polonio.

Located in the department of Rocha in Uruguay, Cabo Polonio began as a small fisherman village on an isolated beach but over the years, tourists and bohemian locals alike slowly began to settle in this wild but hidden gem. In an attempt to disconnect and live a simpler existence without the snares of the modern world, this small beach town began to come to life. Cabo Polonio -or simply Cabo- as it’s endearingly called by Uruguayans boasts a hippie vibe where freedom of all kinds exists untouched.

Beautiful Cabo Polonio. Credit: Christian Bergara

Today, it’s become a bohemian paradise, dotted with surf shacks and fishing abodes mixed with beach houses. Throughout the year there is a vast swing of the pendulum for the population; while the local hippies and fisherman stay year round, in the summer months it gets packed with “cool kids” looking to have a memorable summer forming a one-of-a-kind beach town.

In 2009, the entire area was made into a national park, preserving its wild beauty in perpetuity. While the hamlet still gets packed with the summer crowd, everyone must adhere to strict environmental rules, including extremely limited modern comforts.

It is said that the name Cabo Polonio derives from a ship called Polonio that shipwrecked on the cape’s shores and eventually sunk to the bottom of the ocean during the eighteenth century. However, recent research suggests the name could be attributed to the family name “Poloni” who was the captain of a ship that sunk near the cape.

What to do

Cabo Polonio offers the perfect place to relax and disconnect from the world including from all our daily to-do list and responsibilities. There aren’t a ton of activities to do in Cabo Polonio and perhaps this is one of the reasons which makes the town so especial. However, here is a list of activities that you shouldn’t miss when visiting this town.

Visit the lighthouse: An iconic attraction of Cabo Polonio, the lighthouse is hard to miss as it dominates the entire village. Climb 132 steps to get to the top platform and soak in breathtaking views of the town, the Torres islands, the sea lion reserve along with the dunes and beaches that surround Cabo Polonio.

Read blog: The lighthouse of Cabo Polonio: A must-see attraction in Uruguay

The lighthouse of Cabo Polonio. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Enjoy the beautiful beaches: There are two beaches in Cabo Polonio with pristine white sand: La Calavera (to the north) and the Sur beach (to the south).

The Sur beach is where the 4X4 trucks enter to transport people to and from Cabo Polonio. You can reach the lighthouse if you walk on this beach and can marvel at the sea lion’s reserve.

If you enjoy walking on the beach, from La Calavera you can reach Cerro de la Buena Vista in Valizas. It’s about a 7km walk and you will be able to enjoy wonderful vistas towards Cabo, its beaches and dunes, and the colorful shacks. The view from here is defiantly worth hanging on your wall!

In summer, there are lifeguard services on both of these beaches.

Visit La Lobería: Located near the Cabo Polonio Lighthouse, La Lobería is a great place to marvel at the colony of sea lions and seals which coexist in harmony in their natural habitat. During the summer months, which is also the breeding season, the colony becomes really noisy as all the sea lions hang out on the rocks soaking up the sun. Both mothers and their cute children can be recognized by the sound they emit, so join the party with a hearty yell yourself!

The colony of sea lions and seals which coexist in harmony in Cabo. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Purchase artisanal crafts: Get a souvenir or two before you leave Cabo at one of the local handcrafts stands and support local businesses. Many shops have artisanal items that have been made with local materials.

Practice surfing: Cabo Polonio offers excellent waves for surfing; keep in mind that the water is usually on the cold side. Lessons for individuals or groups are available, and you can also rent surfboards and surfing gears. For surfers this is one of the best spots you’ll find in Uruguay.

Cabo Polonio. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Enjoy the amazing sunsets: I think I am not partial when I say this, but Uruguay has some of the world’s best sunsets. Head to Sur beach to admire the beautiful sunsets every day with some mate – the country’s national drink/passtime.

Where to stay

If you are visiting Cabo Polonio during the high season (Mid-December-February) remember to make your reservations in advance. Accommodations fill up really quickly. Keep in mind there are many hostels but you can also rent a house.

La Perla del Cabo: Located directly on the beach front and literally only steps away from La Calavera beach, this hotel offers private bathrooms, a restaurant-bar, as well as a terrace to relax in the evenings. There is also wi-fi available.

Viejo Lobo: A 1-minute walk from the beach and a 15-minute walk to the lighthouse, Viejo Lobo offers budget accommodations with sea views. All rooms have shared bathrooms and you will also find common kitchen facilities available to guests.

Narakan: Narakan offers beachfront accommodations and with the regular amenities you’ll find in Cabo, such as a restaurant and a bar. The hostel provides luggage storage space and free WiFi.

What you should bring

Cash: There are no ATMs, so remember to bring enough cash for your stay in Cabo.

Flashlight: You will need one during the night to navigate through the town at night.

Sunscreen: Remember that the sun is stronger in the Southern Hemisphere, especially from 12-3pm. Bring your sunscreen to avoid sunburn.

Where to eat

Salsipuedes: This coffee shop – open all year long – offers homemade cakes, empanadas, salads, juices, tacos, among other tasty treats.

El Timbó: This restaurant specializes in fish, seafood, beef (of course!), pasta and salads. Food is made from fresh local produce which will be served right to your table. This is as farm to table as you can get.

La Golosa: Enjoy the beautiful views of the sea when dining at this restaurant which offers a wide variety of dishes.

El Templao: Get your groceries and basic supplies at the only market (grocery and convenience store) in town.

Getting to Cabo Polonio

The massive 4X4 vehicles which cross the dune fields. Credit: Niki Biller

Cabo Polonio is located on highway 10 (264,5km). It’s a 3 hour and 30 minutes’ drive from Montevideo.

Once you arrive in Cabo, you will not be allowed to drive into the village and will have to take one of the massive 4X4 vehicles which cross the dune fields. It’s approximately a 20-minute ride to the village center. The cost is $U296 (US$7) per person. Children under 5 years old go for free. Keep in mind that you will only be able to pay in cash.

The stunning lighthouse of Cabo Polonio. Credit: Christian Bergara

The lighthouse of Cabo Polonio: A must-see attraction in Uruguay

Written by Caro on March 10, 2021. Posted in South America & The Caribbean, Uruguay. 4 Comments on The lighthouse of Cabo Polonio: A must-see attraction in Uruguay

Surrounded by several legends and stories, the lighthouse of Cabo Polonio offers breathtaking views as it stands guard over this one-of-a-kind town.

I am fascinated by lighthouses – maybe it’s because of their mysterious aura, the enigmatic legends and ghost stories which are always attached to them, or because it’s just easy to close your eyes and imagine a lighthouse shining brightly in the middle of a storm to prevent potential shipwrecks. Either way, if I’m visiting a town and there is a lighthouse, you can be sure that it will be included in my travel itinerary.

Obviously, when we visited Cabo Polonio back in 2019, a stop at the lighthouse was a must – and it’s conveniently located a short walk from the center of town. This lighthouse is one of the most iconic attractions of Cabo Polonio, standing tall above the tiny surf shacks, dominating the skyline and protecting the village. The platform on top offers breath-taking views of the town, the Torres islands, the beaches of Cabo Polonio, and the countless sea lions and seals who soak up the sun along the rocks.

Tip: Make sure you bring comfortable shoes/flip flops because to get to the top you will need to climb a total of 132 steps. The path to the lighthouse can be wet from ocean spray.

In 1976, the Cabo Polonio lighthouse was designated a Historical Monument of Uruguay and it is the most visited attraction in this sleepy bohemian beach town. The height of the lighthouse is 26 meters but combined with the elevation of the rocks where it sits on, it reaches 40 mts.

A bit of history

The lighthouse of Cabo Polonio was first lit on May 1, 1881 to prevent the frequent shipwrecks on the dangerous, rocky coastline.

The first lighting system was fueled by horse-fat, but it was later replaced by the grease or oil from the sea-lions as they were a plentiful resource living nearby on the beach. In the early days, keeping a lighthouse was not an easy task and was incredibly lonely. Lighthouse keepers would have to climb the long and winding staircase to reach the top of the tower to keep the flames alive. When it was “modernized” with a motor and gears, the salty environment would force the keeper to wind up the motor every three hours (what a workout!).

The lighthouse of Cabo Polonio. Credit: Niki Biller

The first lighthouse keeper, Pedro Grupillo, established the long-held tradition of using the lighthouse as his living quarters. Today, with all the trappings of modern transportation, Cabo Polonio can be a difficult journey to undergo; It’s amazing the capacity humans have to adapt to any environment, as back in the 1880s the trip must have much harder and life for him must have been extremely lonely!

In 1911, a new optics system was installed which significantly increased the power of the signal emitted by the lighthouse. With this improvement, the lighthouse of Cabo Polonio became a fundamental instrument for navigation in the area as one of the most powerful in the coast of Uruguay.

The legends

Legend has it that when Cabo Polonio was an inhospitable and lonely fishing village – an unnamed lighthouse keeper, and his wife, arrived to perform the particularly important job of maintaining the beacon. The wife who was pregnant suddenly went into labor; the lighthouse keeper rushed to the capital to find a midwife who could assist with the delivery.

Unfortunately, a huge storm erupted on the village and delayed his return for almost a week. His wife who had no other choice but to give birth alone had to walk the 132 steps to the top every day, carrying her newborn in her arms, to ensure the beacon was lit every day to prevent shipwrecks.

This is where the legend gets murkier: over time the lighthouse served as a school for the small number of children and fishermen living in the village who couldn’t read. Some say, the teacher was none other than the lighthouse keeper’s wife – the same strong woman who braved giving birth alone and lighting the beacon every day.

And who doesn’t love a good pirate legend? I know my husband can’t miss one so I have to tell everyone: ship captains and pirates were afraid of the water surrounding the lighthouse as they believed the lighthouse was haunted! The ghosts trapped in the lighthouse held lots of power over the coast, causing compasses to spin wildly and instruments to stop functioning – these old sea dogs thought these ghosts caused all the shipwrecks by lulling the ships off course into the rocks.

Opening hours and entrance fees

The entrance fee costs $30 (US$0.60) and is open daily from 10 am to 1 pm and from 3 pm to 5 pm. Keep in mind that children under 8 years of age are not allowed to go up.

Getting to Cabo Polonio

View from one of the windows of the lighthouse of Cabo Polonio. Credit: Niki Biller

Cabo Polonio is located on highway 10 (264,5km). It’s a 3 hour and 30 minutes drive from Montevideo, the Uruguayan capital.

Once you arrive in Cabo, you will not be allowed to drive into the town so you will have to park your car and take one of the massive 4X4 trucks which are the only vehicles that can cross the dunes.

It’s approximately a 20-minute ride to reach the town. The cost is $U296 (US$7) per person. Children under 5 years old go for free. Keep in mind that you will only be able to pay in cash.

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Cabo Polonio's lighthouse. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Know before you go: 10 tips before travel to Uruguay

Written by Caro on February 17, 2021. Posted in Know before you go series, South America & The Caribbean, Uruguay. 6 Comments on Know before you go: 10 tips before travel to Uruguay

Before you travel to Uruguay here are some helpful tips to maximize your adventure.

Uruguay is our home. While I grew up in the States, I would go back almost every year and spend my “second summer” through the holiday season. Even in Washington DC with my parents, Uruguayan culture and traditions ran deep – I even married an Uruguayan girl! I am very passionate about my country and feel a responsibility to spread the word about Uruguay to the world. I hope this small love letter inspires you to take a trip down south and feel the warm ocean breeze as you eat some BBQ on the beach.

Modern and progressive

Uruguay has always been at the forefront of modern idealism – most obviously seen throughout the country in its architecture where the styles span trends of each era; from French Nouveau to Art Deco to 21^st century minimalism. Digging a bit deeper you’ll find Uruguayans have also applied this throughout their political history; it was the first country in the New World to give women the right to vote, the second country in South America to legalize same-sex marriage and the first country in the world to legalize marijuana. While Uruguayans keep pushing forward, you’ll also be charmed to find some hold overs from previous epochs sprinkled into everyday life, like the mate.

We eat very late

Oh boy do we ever! Uruguayans have a late lunch and an even later dinner…especially in the summer months. Be prepared to eat around 10pm or later whether you go to a restaurant or visit some friends; you’ll spend lots of time chatting over a meal no matter where you eat.

But don’t worry, you’ll have plenty of snacks to nibble on in between meals. Make like the locals and head to the rambla or beach with a bag of bizcochos (fresh baked pastries), a mate, and watch the sunset to inspire you for dinner.

Parrillas

The quintessential culinary experience in Uruguay; no matter where you are, there’s a steakhouse around the corner. While described as steakhouses, they are closer to an old Texas BBQ joint with multiple cuts of meat on an open flame. Just picture walking into a restaurant, overcome by the delicious smell of grilled meat and then, seeing the entire back wall as a massive grill filled with every cut of beef you could imagine. You won’t be at a loss for choices as you will immediately want to dive into some chorizos (sausages), asado (short ribs) or pulpón (rump steak). For the more adventurous you can ask for blood sausages and other yummy nasty bits.

BBQ, or asado, is more than just a meal – it’s a lifestyle and culture that stems from our most prominent historical figures, the gauchos.

Food

Uruguay typically is one of the leaders in beef consumption per capita in the world. However, beef is not our only dish. We have major influences from Italy and Spain in our cuisine. You’ll find pizza joints on almost every block and a huge variety of fresh baked pasta on every menu.

Tip: if you want to cook yourself stop by one of the many pasta shops throughout the country to get the freshest artisanal pasta you’ll ever try.

We have very unique cultural dishes like the Chivito (a fully loaded steak sandwich), milanesa (deep fried breaded steak), ñoquis (or gnocchi – traditionally eaten every 29^th of the month), tortas fritas (fried dough traditionally eaten when it rains), Pascualina (a spinach tart like spanakopita) and pasta caruso (a unique sauce made with cream, ham, mushrooms and tomatoes with your choice of pasta).

This doesn’t even begin to scratch the surface and we haven’t mentioned sweets! You’ll find lots of desserts like panqueques de dulce de leche (crepes stuffed with dulce de leche), and the Torta Chaja (a peach and merengue cake) only found in Uruguay.

Peso

Exchanging money is simple and places are easy to find. You always want to have cash in hand, especially in some of the more rural parts (including beaches) just in case.

Many restaurants will encourage you to pay with credit cards if you are a tourist – as a foreign visitor using a credit card you may be exempt from sales taxes, so ask ahead of time.

If you plan to eat with friends and plan to split the payment between each other, make sure you tell you waiter before ordering; due to a variety of regulations, it is very difficult to split the payment after ordering.

Tip: When you exchange currency, do not do it in the airport as you’ll find better rates at malls and even hotels.

Transportation

Lighthouse. Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro

Uruguay is a safe country, usually listed among the safest in South America. Driving around the country is fairly simple, there are few difficult terrains and the roads are pretty straight forward. Montevideo and Punta del Este are the most complex places to drive, as most “big” cities tend to be, so make sure to use your GPS!

Uruguayans tend to drive fast…ok very fast, and road rules are a casual suggestion to follow. If you rent a car, make sure you drive in the right lane and use all of your “spider-sense” while on the road.

There are lots of modes for transport – taxi and buses are all over the country for public usage, while Uber is only available in Montevideo and Punta del Este (for now). I recommend you use Uber where available as it’s safe and cheap. Taxis can overcharge tourists so watch out.

I recommend you use the bus for trips – buses run at every hour from terminals to take you to the beaches of your choice or into the Uruguayan countryside. Make sure you ask for the direct bus lines or your trip will take a lot longer than anticipated.

Tip: Uber is great but there are some issues when going to and from the airport. When you arrive, there are car services that will take you to your destination and then back to the airport when you depart; some of these services will ask for payment for the return destination but will do so at a reduced rate.

Beaches to ranches

San Franscisco, Uruguay. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Uruguay is famous for its miles and miles of coastline – and Uruguayans are fanatical about the beach. If you don’t have a place at your favorite beach, then you rent one for vacation…every vacation. Add the fact that Montevideo is a beach lover’s dream with beach access just about everywhere in the city.

Uruguay is not only for beaches – you have lots of ecotourism, very cool spots in the countryside, and you can visit a classic estancia, or ranch. Estancias are a must as you will stay in a classic Uruguayan estate from the 1800’s (which are now retrofitted as resorts) and get the full gaucho experience which includes riding horses through the countryside.

Another new tourist attraction are vineyards. In Uruguay you can get the full tasting and food pairing experience, and even stay overnight. I recommend you stop by Bodega Garzón, Uruguay’s most award winning vineyard, in Jose Ignacio (30-40 minutes from Punta del Este). While you are there stop by Garzón the restaurant, the town of Garzón, just a short drive away to dine at world famous chef, Francis Mallmann’s flagship restaurant.

Football

Estadio Centenario. Montevideo, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro

Football, or soccer, is pretty much religion here in Uruguay. No matter where you go, you’ll find kids playing in the streets, friends gathered in cafes watching games, or families arguing who is the better team. Uruguay has a rich history of soccer including multiple World Cups (recognized by FIFA as a 4-time winner), winners of international tournaments of all kinds, and even winners of the Mundialito (a tournament of past World Cup Champions that happens once every 50 years). While Uruguayans love the international teams, they are fundamentally split between two club teams – Nacional and Peñarol. These two teams rival the modern European clubs in trophies and international fame.

Tip: If you plan your trip right, you may get lucky and catch Uruguay’s biggest rivalry – Nacional vs. Peñarol – at the Centenario stadium. It’s an experience you will never forget with fans singing, banging drums, and shooting fireworks off from the stands all game.

Mate

The mate, the source of my comfort. Every afternoon when I make one, it floods me with memories of drinking the piping hot tea with my grandfather. Mate is another of those traditions that cut across the Uruguayan and Argentine boarder – areas with deep connections to the gaucho. The drink, made by pouring boiling water into a gourd with dehydrated leaves and drunk through a metal straw, is a vital experience. You’ll find everyone in Uruguay drinking it; whether they are relaxing at the beach, studying for a test, in the office, or simply walking the Rambla, the mate is as essential to our culture as wine is to the French.

Music

Uruguay is similar to Argentina in musical taste, culture and heritage. You’ll find that almost every musical style or artists has legitimate claims to both countries; leaving modern audiences bewildered at the true origins of the artist or work. This is the case for our most famous genre and artists – the Tango.

However, there are two uniquely Uruguayan forms of music that are not found anywhere else: Candombe and Murga. Candombe is essentially a drumline (made from pear shaped drums), whose origins can be found in Afro-Uruguayan descendants and is very popular doing Carnival. However, Candombe is heard year round through Llamadas, long drum processions calling for neighbors to dance in the streets, that spontaneously pop up throughout the year.

Murga is another genre that is linked to Carnival – it’s a theatrical music group who play all Carnival long. Imagine elaborate shows with brightly painted singers, like an army of happy jesters, singing almost acapella with the sound of drums rolls keeping the beat.

Bonus: Uruguay and Argentina share the same culture with little differences due to geographical distances. If you have been to either country, you’ll feel right at home visiting the other one.