Cobblestone streets, historically charming houses bathed in the yellow hue of evening lanterns make this city one of Uruguay’s most romantic spots.
Colonia del Sacramento is my favorite city in Uruguay. I have been going here since I was a small child and have never gotten tired of its magic – cobblestone streets with colorful Portuguese era houses and meaning river walk.
Colonia was originally founded by the Portuguese in 1680 to get a foothold in the southern tip of the continent, but the city was ruled between the Spanish and Portuguese for several decades – which influenced the city’s unique colonial architecture.
The city – whose Spanish and Portuguese influence merge – is a wonderful day trip from either Montevideo or Buenos Aires. This city is visited by tourists from all around the world but it’s specially popular among Brazilian and Argentineans.
Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
How far is Colonia from Montevideo?
Not far at all. It’s a perfect day trip from Montevideo and there are a ton of transportation options. You can either drive or take a bus and you will get to Colonia del Sacramento in around 2:30/2:45 hours. Alternatively you could go on a tour from Viator – check out some of the best options below.
How far is Colonia from Buenos Aires?
Not far at all! A ferry can take you from buenos Aires to Colonia in around 1:15 hour. There are several companies you can choose from including Colonia Express and Buquebus. Alternatively, you can visit Colonia as your last stop in Uruguay before heading to Buenos Aires.
How many days should you stay in Colonia?
Colonia is a small city so you can see all the sights in a couple of days. While the trip can be done in a day, I recommend you stay at least two days. This was you will have enough time to enjoy its beautiful sights, visit a couple of museums, and get good meals.
Best things to do in Colonia
Explore Colonia’s historic quarter: This is by far the most picturesque part of Colonia. Don’t be afraid of getting lost in the charming and narrow streets; have your camera ready as you will want to photograph the colorful one-story houses and their beautiful facades full of flowers. This is a beautiful stroll to do at night when the lanterns are on and the historic quarter turns even more romantic.
The historic quarter is the part of Colonia which has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. If you stop by the tourist office you can pick up a map where you can find the top attractions of the area; however if you want something more structured there are also guided visits available. The historic quarter is really well-maintained so it’s a pleasure to explore this part of town.
Puerta de la Ciudadela: La Puerta de la Ciudadela is a must-visit when you are in Colonia; marking the limit between the historic and newer part of the city. The Puerta de la Ciudadela was constructed back in 1745 by the Portuguese governor Vasconcellos. Do not forget to climb its sturdy wall and take photos of the cannons and the views towards the coast.
Puerta de la Ciudadela. Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay
Calle de los suspiros: This must be the most charming corner of the historic quarter and it’s by far the most photographed stop by tourists and locals alike. The colorful facades combined with the lanterns and cobblestone street present a magnificent photo opportunity. Despite being constructed over 250 years ago, the houses in this street are really well-maintained.
Calle de los suspiros. Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
So why is it called “the street of sighs”? The name is attributed to two main theories. One is that this street housed several brothels with beautiful women and sailors would “sigh” when they arrived in Colonia. An alternatively theory is that prisoners would “sigh” when they were taken through this street before being taken to the Rio de la Plata to be drawn. There is also a third legend that says this street was visited by lovers who “sighed” because of love.
Colonia del Sacramento. Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Plaza de Toros Real de San Carlos: This bull ring is also a must-visit while in Colonia. The Plaza de Toros was renovated a couple of years ago and it offers guided tours which I highly recommend. During these tours you will learn about the history of the Plaza de Toros as well as fun facts. You’ll notice a clear difference within the site as only 42% of the bull ring was reconstructed so you can see the mix of old and new. Now there are several concerts and cultural events happening in this bull ring along with both day and night tours available. Note that you should take a cab to reach it as it’s located around a 10–15-minute drive from Colonia’s historic quarter.
Plaza de toros Real de San Carlos. Colonia, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Faro de Colonia: I love lighthouses so I don’t miss any opportunity to visit them! This lighthouse is located in the historic quarter near the ruins of the 17th-century Convento de San Francisco and was constructed over 160 years ago. The lighthouse is open from Thursdays to Sunday and you can go up to enjoy wonderful views of the coast and historic quarter. Make sure to stroll down the riverwalk area when you visit the lighthouse.
Lighthouse. Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Colonia sign: This is a nice stop if you are visiting the Plaza de Toros Real de San Carlos. Located next to the river do not miss the chance to take a photo of the Colonia sign.
Iglesia Matriz: This is the oldest church in the country, built by the Porrtuguese in 1680 and then rebuilt twice by the Spanish. It’s located in the Plaza de Armas and even though there is nothing exceptional about its interior it is still worth a quick stop.
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Ready to discover one of Uruguay’s UNESCO World Heritage sites?
With its cobblestone and narrow streets, colorful houses, and quaint vibe, Colonia del Sacramento is a photographer’s dream. Located only 2 hours and a half from Montevideo, Uruguay’s capital, Colonia is the perfect day trip from Montevideo or even from Buenos Aires.
This post compiles the best photographs we took while visiting Colonia on a day trip. We hope they inspire you to travel to this wonderful city and enjoy everything it has to offer.
Puerta de la Ciudadela. Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay17th-century Convento de San Francisco. Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on CaroLighthouse. Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on CaroColonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on CaroColonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on CaroPlaza de toros Real de San Carlos. Colonia, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on CaroColonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on CaroLighthouse. Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on CaroCalle de los suspiros. Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on CaroColonia del Sacramento. Uruguay. Credit: Carry on CaroColonia del Sacramento. Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
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Visit the Monaco of the South – the chic jet-set beach resort of Punta de Este.
One of the world’s hubs for the jet-set and international celebrities, Punta Del Este is the primer beach resort in South America – the Hamptons of the South.
Punta del Este is a world-renowned beach town on a narrow peninsula in southeast Uruguay. Popular Brava Beach is known for its strong surf, hip young crowd, as well as “The Hand,” a giant sculpture of five fingers protruding from the beach.
On the west coast of the peninsula, you have the calm Mansa Beach, where families spend the day cooling off in its shallow waters. Punta del Este is easy to get to from Montevideo – it’s located 131 km away about 1.5 hours driving time, and there are tons of transportation options.
How many days do you need in Punta del Este?
We recommend you stay at least three days, if not more. This will give you ample time to explore Punta del Este’s most famous sights, enjoy the wonderful beaches and experience the local culture. Punta also has a lot to offer, from polo matches to museums to chic gallery parties to unbeatable nightlife, you have plenty to do to fill your days end evenings.
Can you swim in Punta del Este?
Punta del Este offers a wide variety of beaches for different tastes. If you want to party, head to Bikini and La Barra. If on the other hand you would like to enjoy the calm waters visit La Mansa – a perfect beach for families and for swimming as the waters are pretty calm. For those of you looking to surf and who like rough waters, head to La Brava. Overall, there are quite a few beaches in Punta del Este to choose from. I definitely recommend going to a few of them.
Here is our list of the top attractions you must visit when in Punta del Este, no matter how long you stay. Some of them are not located in Punta per se but pretty close by so you should also try visiting these.
Visit one of the largest colonies of sea lions
Located 8 kilometers from Punta del Este and a 40-minute boat ride from the harbor, Isla de Lobos is a must-do attraction. The Isla de Lobos is home to one of the largest colonies of sea lions in the world. There are an estimated 200,000 sea lions living next to this island. Since it’s a protected site, you can only visit it with a guided tour which leaves from Punta del Este’s harbor. Most tours leave in the early morning when wildlife tends to be at its most active and the waters calmer.
This is a great opportunity to watch the sea lions in their natural environment and if you are brave enough, there are some tours that offer the opportunity to swim with these amazing creatures. During this trip, you will also view the Isla de Lobos lighthouse, which is the tallest lighthouse in South America. Also, sometimes in the middle of the night and when its quiet you can hear the sounds of the sea lions from Punta del Este – an amazing sensorial experience.
Taste the best pancakes at La Pataia
La Pataia. Punta Ballena, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
The “panqueques con dulce de leche” are my favorite dessert and one that I eat very often while I am visiting Uruguay. The Uruguayan version of the pancakes are light and thin crepes which are usually filled with Dulce de Leche. Located in Punta Ballena (a 30-minute drive from Punta del Este), the Tambo La Pataia, offers their signature panqueques of Dulce de Leche. They are huge, so I recommend you order one and share it. La Pataia also offers great activities for kids, from feeding the animals to riding horses.
Casapueblo, constructed by the Uruguayan artist Carlos Páez Vilaró, is a cross between museum, workshop and work of art. Located in Punta Ballena, nearby Punta del Este, it’s one of the most beautiful spots in the country to catch a sunset or go whale-watching. It was originally a summer home and workshop of the artist whose design was influenced by the Hornero’s nest, a typical bird of Uruguay, taking 36 years to complete.
While the aesthetic may remind you of the famed Greek island, Santorini, a closer look will give you a picture of a living building with almost organic features. Today, it houses a museum, workshop, art gallery, a cafeteria and a hotel! Distance from Punta del Este is 14km or 20 minutes driving.
Visit the laid-back town of José Ignacio
Jose Ignacio lighthouse. Credit: Carry on Caro
Beginning in November and running through February, Uruguay’s José Ignacio transforms from a sleepy fishing village into a buzzing haven for surfers and international jetsetters swapping their winters for South America’s summer season. Just under an hour from Punta del Este, Jose Ignacio is a lively and social scene indeed, but for those seeking a quieter, mellow respite from the stresses of urban life, it’s still very possible to enjoy this popular coastal destination while keeping a low profile.
Anyone who is anyone has been spotted here – from Anthony Bourdain to Rockstars to NFL team owners. You can also stop by one of the 50 best restaurants in the continent: Parador La Huella. Distance from Punta del Este is 40 minutes.
Hop on a boat to visit Isla Gorriti
During the high season, boats leave every 30 minutes from Punta del Este’s harbor to Isla Gorriti. Located only 15 minutes away from Punta, a trip to Isla Gorriti is a must. Here you can sunbathe on the island’s beautiful and sandy beaches, visit the 18th-century fortifications and enjoy amazing views towards the coast.
On the west side of the island, you can find Playa Honda, where there are plenty of yachts and boats during the summer. On the north shore you can find Playa Jardin, another gorgeous beach. Rounding out the eastern side, you’ll find a small harbor for commercial boats. There are also a couple of restaurants where you can get a snack or something more filling, which you might need after a few hours enjoying the beach. On average, the island welcomes 500 visitors per day (during the high season). Note that staying overnight or camping is not allowed on Isla Gorriti.
Visit the harbor and watch the sea lions get some sun
If you are not interested in taking a boat tour to get to the Isla Gorriti or Isla de Lobos, I still recommend you visit the city’s harbor. Impressive yachts are docked next to humble boats and the sea lions, eager to get some food from the fisherman are ready to welcome you when you arrive to the harbor. Don’t be surprised if you see them lying down and enjoying the sun. They won’t pay much attention to you. The harbor of Punta del Este is a great place to get some good shots of the boats (and yachts), the city and the sea lions.
Enjoy panoramic views at La Vista 360
If you would like to get the best views of Punta del Este’s skyline, head to La Vista 360. Here you can enjoy epic photo opportunities and sit down for a good meal while the rotating floor will let you enjoy 360 views of Punta del Este. There is an elevator which will take you to the observation deck and you can take in amazing views of the beaches and harbor. We recommend you head to La Vista 360 at sunset for a spectacular view of the city. I love the sunsets in Punta del Este – the sky turns reddish and offers magnificent opportunities for sunset photography. Don’t miss it!
Take a photo at The Hand (La Mano)
La Mano. Punta del Este, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
When you are visiting Punta del Este, you probably will see a hand emerging from the sand at Parada 1 at La Brava. This is a very popular sculpture designed by Chilean artist Mario Irarrázabal. This sculpture (also called La Mano or Hombre emergiendo a la vida) is among the city’s icons and a popular place for people to take photos. The Hand has several meanings – a hand waving, a hand asking for help while swimming or also a symbol of pace. The most agreed upon is that it’s a sculpture honoring life.
Stroll along Gorlero Avenue (Avenida Gorlero)
Avenida Gorlero is the most popular street in Punta del Este, think of it like a 5th Avenue meets the Magnificent Mile. Head to Gorlero to enjoy a wideoffer of restaurante and cafes, art galleries, cinemas and casinos. In Gorlero, you’ll find one of my favorite ice cream shops – Heladería Arlecchino – please try the most traditional flavors in Uruguay, dulce de leche and sambayón. During high season, there are numerous live performers and artisans selling their stuff. There is also a new foodhall/nightclub called Bigote Bar, don’t forget to stop by for a drink and some casual fun.
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Art deco buildings juxtaposed to cutting edge modern architecture, miles and miles of beaches, soccer, and parrillas give this city it’s famous chill vibe.
The nation’s capital of Uruguay, Montevideo, is a vibrant, eclectic place with a rich cultural life. Stretching 20km from east to west, the city wears many faces, from its industrial port to the exclusive beachside suburb of Carrasco. Like many beachside cities, you get a laid-back way of life with al the cosmopolitan amenities.
In the historic Ciudad Vieja (old town) art deco and neoclassical buildings jostle for space alongside skyscrapers that appear airlifted from Europe’s Belle Epoque, while to the southeast the shopping malls and modern high-rises of beach communities such as Punta Carretas and Pocitos bear more resemblance to Miami’s South Beach or Rio’s Copacabana. Music, theater and the arts are alive and well here – from elegant grandiose theaters and smokey little tango bars to modern beachfront clubs.
Is Montevideo a walkable city?
Yes! There are quite a few circuits that you could do on foot while in Montevideo; if you divide it up, you can easily walk the best parts in a couple of days. For the Ciudad Vieja, where you can explore a wide variety of art deco buildings, museums and the famous Mercado del Puerto, the city has made a large portion area into a pedestrian only zone. However, if you want to be like the locals, go right to the Rambla where you can enjoy the coastal views as you walk/bike/run along the boardwalk. Don’t forget to just walk around Pocitos and Punta Carretas where you’ll have plenty of shops and cafes to explore.
What is Montevideo known for?
Montevideo is a small city in comparison to the other metropolis of South America, but there is plenty to do and you won’t feel that big city rush at all. If you are looking for a gastronomic experience, cultural explorations, a vibrant nightlife, or you want to chill on the beach, Montevideo is the place for you. However, there much more than meets the eye. Below are the must do attractions you should visit while in Montevideo:
Playa Pocitos. Montevideo, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Stroll in the Ciudad Vieja
Palacio Salvo. Montevideo, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Montevideo was born under Spanish rule as a strategic military fort. Its stone walls, built around 1741, were pulled down in 1829 but the original entrance to the fortress (Puerta de la Ciudadela) is still standing and can be found between the Plaza Independencia and Peatonal Sarandí. This landmark is the official separation of the old part of the city and the modern downtown. Walking around the Ciudad Vieja (the old city) visitors encounter colonial buildings, museums, galleries, cafes, restaurants, bookstores, antique shops, boutiques, and many other attractions. Must see: Plaza Independencia (Mausoleo de Artigas; Puerta de la Ciudadela; Palacio Estévez; and Palacio Salvo).
Palacio Salvo. Montevideo, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Peatonal Sarandí is the zoned pedestrian street of Ciudad Vieja, and by far the most frequented tourist venue of the city. It starts from the Ciudadela, runs along Plaza Constitución (commonly called Plaza Matriz) and ends at the Rambla (the coastal avenue), at the eastern end of Ciudad Vieja. As an extension of this street is the long southern breakwater of the Port of Montevideo. You’ll find some classic architecture along Peatonal Sarandí, as well as many art galleries, classic restauarants and shops. Some of its landmarks include the Museo Torres García, and the Montevideo Metropolitan Cathedral, commonly known as Iglesia Matriz, which also gives to the square the popular naming Plaza Matriz.
Visit the Teatro Solís
Teatro Solis. Montevideo, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Ciudad Vieja Solis Theatre (Spanish: Teatro Solís) is Uruguay’s most important and renowned theatre. It opened in 1856 and the building was designed by the Italian architect Carlo Zucchi. The entire building is a work of art and has an excellent tour which teaches you about its design. It is located in Montevideo’s Old Town, right next to the Plaza Independencia. Catch a play, opera or even take the guided tour…or do all three.
Mercado del Puerto
No visitor should miss Montevideo’s old port market building, at the foot of Pérez Castellano, whose impressive wrought-iron superstructure shelters a gaggle of bustling parrillas (steak restaurants). On weekend afternoons in particular, it’s a lively, colorful place where the city’s artists, craftspeople and street musicians hang out. While there are plenty of spots to eat in the old city, wee recommend going to El Palenque with an empty stomach. Also try the Medio y Medio, which is a cocktail made with a combination of dry white wine and sweet sparkling wine; this cocktail was invented in the Mercado and a must try when visiting.
Visit Playa Pocitos
Rambla de Montevideo, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
An upscale beach-side neighborhood, Pocitos is known for its ample white sandy beach, Playa Pocitos, the Rambla that lies alongside it and its ritzy boutiques. The neighborhood is adjacent to the Punta Carretas district and home to the most popular beach in the City (and location of the Hollywood-inspired Montevideo sign), hosting a variety of outdoor athletic activities such as beach soccer tournaments, volleyball matches, nautical events, among others.
Rambla de Montevideo, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Mirador Panorámico (Panoramic lookout)
For views of Montevideo from high above, head to city hall. The lookout offers panoramic views of the capital. See if you can spot the Palacio Legislativo, el Palacio Díaz and la Parroquia Sagrado Corazón. On a clear day you can even see all the way to the wing-shaped airport.
Built in 1979, the Mirador Panorámico it’s located at a height of 80 meters. Here you can not only soak in the gorgeous views of Montevideo, but you can also grab something to eat and drink (cappuccino anyone?); not to mention you can shop for souvenirs, books, and photos to take home.
The Mirador Panorámico is open every day from 10 am to 8 pm and there is no need to make a prior reservation. It’s located at Soriano 1372, between Santiago de Chile and Ejido. There are no fees to enter the Mirador Panorámico.
Faro Punta Carretas (Punta Carretas’ lighthouse)
Punta Carretas Lighthouse. Montevideo, Uruguay
This lighthouse built in 1948 is located in Punta Carretas and is one of my favorite stops along the Rambla of Montevideo. From the top of the lighthouse you can have a panoramic view of the beach and buildings that dot the boardwalk. There is a wide variety of restaurants where you can enjoy local delicacies such as parrillas and of course fresh fish that’s been caught the same day. This is a wonderful experience for kids who will enjoy racing up the stairs (it’s not dangerous) and explore the beach. It costs approximately a dollar to go up.
Sunset in Montevideo, Uruguay.
Cerro de Montevideo
The Cerro de Montevideo is the highest point of the city, at approximately 132 meters. Here you can find a fortress – which is a military museum now – and was used as lookout, a military prison and leprosarium. It’s not difficult to see why there was a fortress at this location as it offers strategic vantage point above Montevideo. Take some time here to enjoy wonderful views over Montevideo and the Rio de la Plata; don’t forget to take a picture of the cannons which are located outside the fortress.
The cerro is the traditional location that was spotted by explorers, and serves as the folkloric origins of city’s name. There is also a lighthouse here which was built in 1802 which send warning messages using a system of flags to prevent shipwrecks. Despite the Cerro de Montevideo being a must-do while visiting Montevideo, to get there you need to go through a part of the city which is not really safe. I highly recommend you hire a tour to visit it. The entrance is really cheap, it costs approximately US$1.
Visit the Museo de los Andes
If you have read a bit about Uruguay, chances are that you have heard about the Andes tragedy that happened in 1972 when an Uruguayan airplane (with a rugby team on board) crashed in the Andes. This marked the beginning of the most powerful story of survival in human history. Only a few of the 72 individuals surveyed the 72 days of pain, hunger, extreme weather and desperation.
Estadio Centenario. Montevideo, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Uruguay = football lovers. Despite being a country with only 3.5 million people, Uruguay has produced extraordinary players including Suarez, Cavani, Forlan (just to name a few of the most recent) and also won 4 world cups; FIFA has recognized the 1924 and 1928 Olympics as the first world football championships, thus giving Uruguay four official championships.
The Estadio Centenario – built between 1929 and 1930 – hosted the inaugural 1930 FIFA World Cup and is considered an landmark of the sport, therefore the stadium deserves a visit from football fans. The museum of football is a must visit and is open from Monday to Friday from 10 am to 5pm. Don’t forget to take the elevator to the top of the tower for breathtaking views.
Museo del futbol. Estadio Centenario. Montevideo, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Palacio Legislativo
The “Legislative Palace” is a monumental building, serving as the meeting place of the General Assembly of Uruguay, and the seat of the legislative branch of the Uruguayan government. This is a historic neoclassical building,dsinged by the Italian architects, Vittorio Meano and Gaetano Morett; among the notable contributors was sculptor José Belloni, who created numerous reliefs and allegorical sculptures for the building’s exterior. Constructed between 1904 and 1925, the building was inaugurated on August 25, 1925; it was declared a National Historic Monument in 1975 by the government. The building is host to numerous events, and also has daily tours for visitors (make sure to get your tickets in advance).
Wineries
Just outside of Montevideo, you’ll conveniently find some boutique wineries to spend the day. While there are plenty to choose from, we recommend Artesana Winery – a vineyard ran by three women roughly 30 minutes outside the city. Here, you’ll be able to not only enjoy wine tastings, but you’ll also have a gastronomic experience and partake in a tour of the lands.
One of the most popular wines in Uruguay are also relatively close from the city, Bodega Carrau. Carrau is one of the oldest wineries in the country, with 265 years of a single family’s winemaking tradition. Located in Montevideo and at only 17 km from downtown, Bodegas Carrau is a perfect option for those visiting the city of Montevideo. As with Artesana, you can enjoy tasting various vintages and some delicious snacks; make sure you also do the tour which will take to you the bodega’s ancient cellar.
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Practice horseback riding in Uruguay to take in the country’s gaucho culture.
The history of horses in Uruguay goes back as far as the first European settlers arrived on the grassy plains. Growing up in an Uruguayan household in the US, there have been some images burned into my mind – chic beaches, mate, asados, of course soccer, and the gaucho. The mythical gaucho has always held my attention, frankly in an enviable manner. Just like American boys wanted to be cowboys growing up, I quietly dreamed of being a gaucho – riding horses, looking bad ass in a beret, and enjoying an asado (Uruguayan BBQ) under the stars.
This was the epitome of cool, not the cosmopolitan city life or the rich playboys on the coast of Punta del Este. To me, the gaucho meant freedom; the freedom to drop modern life’s pressures to make a hard living by your own skill and wits. But who was I kidding? I was always soaking up the sun on the beach or chasing girls on the boardwalk, the easy life was too much fun.
I was always enthralled by the Uruguayan country life, especially since my maternal grandfather would tell me tales of his adventures growing up in between both worlds – while he lived in Montevideo, he spent an avid amount of time in the countryside. He met my grandmother in the country, where he would ride his horse to pick her up for a date. I would hear stories of his escapades as we would sit drinking mate in the mornings. On my father’s side, my grandfather’s family owned estancias throughout Uruguay – which were filled with real gauchos herding cows along grassy pastures. Not only is horse riding in my cultural heritage, but it has a strong presence in my literal blood and soul.
Whether you are on one of the famed estancias with the local gauchos, or have a love of Uruguayan country life and ride the low lying cerros – you must try your hand at horseback riding.
“Montar a caballo es tomar prestada la libertad”
Horses and the surrounding hills of Piriapolis. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
There are plenty of places where you can go horseback riding in Uruguay. Ranches, called Estancias, are the first place that comes to mind – especially when you picture your experience surrounded by gauchos – but many other schools are easily available. They can be as close as twenty minutes away from Montevideo, or right around the corner of a beach town.
Earlier this year, when I spent a couple of months in Punta Colorada, I had the opportunity to take horseback riding lessons in Juan Martín Luzardo’s school. This is a guy who literally grew up riding horses, as his first memory is being on a horse; Martín would fall asleep on horseback as a baby when his dad would take him riding. Martín is a true lover of horses who believes that everyone should experience being around this noble beast. He is super respectful towards the animals and only uses techniques which don’t harm or stress the horses in anyway; in fact, he goes out of the way to be kind and connect with all the horses in his care.
If it wasn’t clear how profound his love and admiration for the horse is, you’ll immediately pick up on it once you take your first lesson. He is a great instructor, who is extremely passionate and patient (especially with a dunce like me!) and was the perfect person to learn how to ride.
The school, located in a unique setting in Punta Colorada, is surrounded by low lying hills all around, giving you the opportunity to learn horseback riding surrounded by nature. You’ll see lots of other horses, as the school also boards local horses which gives the animals the chance to socialize. Martín will be the first to tell you horses are social animals and for a horse to be around others horses it is extremely beneficial for quality of life.
While horses may be stabled, Martín likes them to be in their natural setting as much as possible; horses are normally found across the vast fenced terrain so they can remain together. Martín does have a stable with food and water for the horses, but they avoid it to rather spend time with one another – Some even have specific friends who always greet each other upon returning home.
Horseback rididing in Punta Colorada. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Normally, I tend to jump into a situation and then think afterwards of the consequences…a strategy that’s worked so far for me in life. However, the first classes I took, I have to admit, I was kind of scared… but Juan Martín was with me the entire way making sure the horse and I were both comfortable. He immediately had me stand in front of the horse and gently pet it while I would talk; this would also make the horse feel comfortable around me. In the first couple of classes, you’ll learn the basics – how to mount, how to hold the reigns, how to prompt the horse to either start or turn, and of course how to “brake”.
After a couple of classes, Martín wanted me to start riding through the hills and he took me one late afternoon to one of his favorite spots in Punta Colorada. This hill sits hidden behind the Cerro San Antonio giving you a breathtaking view of Piriápolis from above and with the sunset streaking the sky, it was undeniably beautiful. It’s one of those moments when watching the sunset from your native patch of earth that you realize how the stresses of modernity simply don’t matter. And then my favorite part: we took the horses to the beach. Here, along the water’s sandy shores we had the horses galloped the length of the beach.
There is an intense freedom to riding a horse, something that feels natural. In today’s world, where we are constantly preoccupied to unnatural devices, it is important to reconnect with activities humans have done for thousands of years. Horseback riding, with the bond you make with the animal or the connection with the land, is the perfect opportunity to get back to our human roots.
Personally, I cannot recommend a better teacher. Even if you are experienced, Martín accepts everyone and will curate your time to fit your level. If you want to contact Juan Martín, visit his Instagram page.
What you need to bring
While you may want to just show up in jeans and a tee-shirt, truth to be told there are some items you need to bring which you may not have considered:
Comfortable shoes – While you should preferably have a good pair of riding boots, which are easy to clean and provide the perfect grip on the stirrup, you should at least have some comfortable shoes. Whether they are a pair of sneakers or hiking boots, make sure you can be in them for an extended period and can clean them easily. If you want to buy riding boots, you can do so locally at one of the traditional clothing shops in Uruguay, just make sure you don’t get one of the high end boots for your first time out.
Light jacket – It’s always good to have a light jacket with you when traveling and horseback riding is no exception – especially in shoulder seasons. I normally go in the afternoons to catch the sunset over the hills, and in Uruguay once the sun goes down it can get chilly fast. Once you get more experienced, you’ll feel more exertion and start to sweat; a light jacket can help keep you warm when you cool down. On cooler days it’s best to bring a sweater along to keep you warm. I prefer to use The North Face Thermoball vest, as it’ll keep you warm enough during a ride.
Hat – The sun is strong in Uruguay, even in the winter. But let’s be honest every rider in history has had a cool hat or two on while on horseback. While you can wear a regular dad hat or baseball hat, or even a trucker hat, why not go local? Go ahead and buy a beret (like me) or stop by one of the local shops, like Arte y Tradición, which specialize in traditional clothing, to get a gaucho hat for your ride.
Sturdy pants – This may seem odd, but make sure you wear jeans or sturdy riding pants (or work pants like Dickies). While on horseback you’ll be surprised how often you can brush up against branches and other objects that will tear clothing. Another option is to get a traditional “bombacha”, or riding pants used by gauchos – not those silly things worn in the late 2000’s. These are well worth the purchase as they are sturdy and easily fit into your boots. You can also wear them without boots as they are quite comfortable; think of them like thicker khakis or slacks.
Sunscreen – A must when you are outside. Like I said earlier the sun is very strong in Uruguay and you’ll burn easily (even if you normally don’t). Bring along Coppertone sunscreen to be sure you have good protection.
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Located a short drive from Piriápolis, Punta Fría is an ideal spot for those looking to unwind and get lost by the seaside.
Punta Fría is a small peninsula which brings together those who love the sea: fishermen, surfers, and diving enthusiasts. Punta Fría also draws the summer crowds of Uruguayans who are looking for a laid-back vacation where enjoying the sun and sea are the major activities during the day. Uruguay is full of these tiny coastal retreats, which offer an escape from the rush and hubbub of Montevideo or for those who want a permanent vacation – Punta Fría is a perfect location for either reason.
Punta Fría is strategically located between Piriápolis, the seaside resort where you can enjoy a wide variety of restaurants and family-friendly activities, and San Francisco, known for its calm and family-oriented beaches. Punta Fría offers very limited options where you can get basic groceries and a couple of eateries, however if you are looking for robust choices, Piriápolis is located only a 5-minute drive. Bear in mind, Punta Fría’s shops and eateries are kept to a minimum on purpose to keep the laid-back ambience in place.
Punta Fría mainly draws visitors during the summer months, but to be honest, I love visiting this beach town during winter when it is completely deserted and you can have it all to yourself.
Punta Fria. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
What you can do
Punta Fría is really tiny which gives you the advantage to explore everything it has to offer on foot. Here are a few things you can do in this quaint fishermen’s beach town:
Go for a walk on the boardwalk:
Punta Fría, along with its neighbor beach towns, all offer several miles of boardwalk for those who enjoy walking, running, or roller skating. What’s more, the boardwalk is also a great spot to watch the sunset; bring your mate and a bag of bizcochos (pastries) for local flavor. I promise you that the sunsets you enjoy at this location will be forever imprinted in your mind – they are simply breathtaking.
If you enjoy eating seafood, head to the fish stalls located along the boardwalk of Punta Fría. This is the real sea to table as all the seafood that is used or sold comes directly from what the local fishermen caught that morning! There is a variety of dishes ranging from handheld seafood empanadas to paellas of all kinds; you can also pick up a fresh catch or two to cook at home in the evening. Right next to the stall you’ll find a small inlet where you can eat while enjoying a magnificent view, however if you want to sit down at a table, many stalls have seating available as well.
Punta Fria. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Eat with a view:
Located in the Rambla de los Ingleses and Ramos Mejía, the rustic Puertito Don Anselmo allows you to eat great seafood while watching the waves lazily crash against the rocks through its numerous windows – it’s no small wonder why it’s been around for over 50 years. If you are not into sea food, don’t worry, there are plenty of other delicious options to fill your belly.
Opening hours:
Saturdays: 12.30 pm a 4:00 pm – 8:30 pm to midnight
Sundays: 12.30 pm to 4:00 pm
For reservations call: 4432 29 25
Another restaurant worth visiting is Kraken which is also located in the Rambla de los Ingleses. In addition to serving fresh sea food, Kraken also offers sushi, tapas, and local fare. Here you can enjoy local wine, from the famed Bodegas Garzón, and all the vegetables served are organic and locally sourced from a nearby family.
Opening hours:
Fridays and Sundays: 12:30 pm to 3:30 pm and 8:30 pm to midnight
For reservations contact: 091 217 883
Visit the Stella Maris pier:
This is an extremely picturesque location so bring your camera along to capture the pier, the ocean, and breathtaking view. If you watch closely, you will also be able to see fishermen arriving on their boats with the daily catch. There are plenty of hungry seagulls eagerly waiting to see if there are any leftovers who really bring to life the experience. Do not forget pictures of the hundreds of seagulls hanging out – they are really photogenic. This is also a perfect location to enjoy the calm of the sea, the chirping of the seagulls, and the salty sea breeze on your face.
Go diving:
This is a popular diving spot for many locals as the rocks surrounding the Stella Maris pier form pools of transparent water. Add the local sea life meandering along the ocean and this makes Punta Fría one of the best locations to learn how to dive in Uruguay. If you are interested in learning, or going for a dive, check out Buceo Octopus.
Punta Fria. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Stop by the old racecourse:
The old racecourse was inaugurated back in 1907 and functioned as such until the 1930s when it was dismantled by Francisco Piria to sell the land. Now the only element that remains are the ruins located in the intersection of Argerich and Pedro Visca.
Ruins of the old racecourse. Punta Fría, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
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Read which are the gorgeous gems in Piriápolis, Uruguay, that you shouldn’t miss.
Located a little over an hour from Montevideo, Piriápolis is the perfect spot for those who want to enjoy its beautiful beaches and stunning art deco rambla; take advantage of several hiking opportunities; and dive headfirst into tasty local cuisine.
Getting to Piriápolis from Montevideo is really easy. For the best panoramic views, take the Ruta Interbalnearia, as you will connect with all the beaches along the coast. As you drive, look out for the hills lazily rising in the distance – they serve as the local welcoming committee for visitors as you approach Piriápolis; literally you’ll be five minutes from the exit to drive right next to the beach.
Turn right on Solís (Km 80), and you will be stunned by the meandering coastline which will give you magnificent views of the ocean as you approach Piriápolis. You’ll immediately know you’ve arrived as the white art deco rambla pops out from the low dunes.
Featured tours
Piriápolis offers a bit for everyone
Piriápolis offers a bit for everyone, no matter if it’s the younger or older crowds, and for those looking to relax or wanting to spend a more “active” vacation. If you are planning to go the active route, Piriápolis offers plenty of opportunities to conquer several hills for weekend hikers. You can also head to the boardwalk to jog, run, or power walk all while you take in the beautiful art déco buildings that dot the landscape.
Tip: Remember that the boardwalk can get busy -especially during the summer weekends- so if you are planning to exercise head there early in the morning or late in the evening.
But if you are looking to relax, Piriápolis offers plenty of beaches where you can take a book with you to spend hours sandbathing and watching life go by. After you have soaked in the sun for several hours, head to the rambla side restaurants to eat some local delicacies and enjoy cultural events which are a frequent summer staple.
Piriápolis was founded by Francisco Piria in 1890 – conveniently an entrepreneur and alchemist. At the turn of the century, Piriápolis was THE place to go during the summer to be seen, in Uruguay, and to strut around in your best clothes along the rambla. Despite being replaced by the modern and cosmopolitan Punta del Este, Piriápolis’ beauty still shines to this day and cannot be missed.
Among my favorite things to do in Piriápolis can be found:
Hike Piriápolis rolling hills
There are several hikes through Piriápolis’ rolling hills that offer magnificent views of the town and the ocean…and offer a snapshot of country life. Here are some of my favorites:
Cerro San Antonio:
To get the best postcard picture of Piriápolis, head to the Cerro San Antonio. The cerro, or hill, is a short drive to reach the top, or you can take the chairlift located next to the harbor. There are some very brave people who choose to bike or run to the top but be careful if you try to do the same, this is a road with lots of traffic. However, it’s great exercise, and you’ll find a few places to get snacks and a drink to get reenergized at the cerro’s summit.
Tip: If you are visiting during January you might be lucky to watch or even join runners for the Doble San Antonio race, a 4k or 8k run, which goes up and down the Cerro San Antonio – a really steep challenge!
View from Cerro San Antonio. Piriapolis, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Once you reach the top, you’ll be blown away by the view from the top, so be sure to take a few shots of the city and the ocean from above. Apart from the killer view, you can visit the tiny chapel of San Antonio, the patron saint of lovers – maybe someone will get lucky (wink wink). While you are enjoying a drink, you can also pick up some souvenirs and other knickknacks for those waiting for you back home.
Cerro del Toro:
For another great view of the town and hills nearby, head to the Cerro del Toro, the second highest hill in Piriápolis. The name derives from a massive fountain in the shape of a bull, set on top of a gorgeous grotto on the cerro’s summit.
Legend has it that Francisco Piria had it brought from France, however this fountain, which weighs an astounding 3 tons, had to be carried up in pieces then put back together when it was being installed. When you stand at the grotto, you’ll see a stream of mineral water gushing from the bull’s mouth – and it is drinkable and delicious!
Make sure that when you hike this cerro you bring comfortable hiking shoes and socks, but most importantly a water bottle to refill with some of the purest mineral water in the country.
This hill is also famous for its air quality, which offers some of the freshest air; so take deep breaths when you reach the summit.
Cerro Pan de Azúcar:
Cerro Pan de Azucar. Piriapolis, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
The crown jewel of the local hills, it’s appropriate that it also happens to be the highest hill in Piriápolis. Not only do you get the Sugarloaf Mountain aesthetics, but the cerro is easily recognizable among the others since it has a cross on the top.
This is definitely a challenging hike, more than the Cerro del Toro’s, so come prepared for a long day. You can go up Pan de Azúcar between 10:00 am to 3:00 pm, and it will take around 2-4 hours to hike. While the trek is long, it’s an easy path to follow as you’ll have arrows that have been painted on rocks guiding you to make sure you don’t stray too far away.
Located on route 37, the Cerro Pan de Azúcar offers an animal reserve where you can experience the national wildlife. This is a great spot to stop by if you are traveling with kids – they will absolutely love it.
Once you reach the top, you can also climb approximately 100 steps to the top of the cross. There are small windows through which you can soak up the landscape or sit on a few seats to catch your breath. Keep in mind that it can get really windy up there on the cross, so layer up and dress accordingly.
Tip: If you are hiking the Cerro Pan de Azúcar go early in the morning. In summer, you will avoid the worst of sun as it shines the strongest between noon and 3pm.
Visit the Stella Maris
View from the Stella Maris. Piriapolis, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
The famed Stella Maris, representing the Virgin Mary, was made by an Italian sculptor and is located on the Cerro San Antonio. Local legend claims that the Stella Maris looks towards the sea to protect the fishermen, which later on your way down you can try some of the freshest seafood and gaze back up at the sculpture.
You can either drive up (but note that parking is extremely limited in this spot) or take a short climb up the stairs located at the base of the hill. This is one of the best views of Punta Fría and definitely worth a picture.
Stop by Piria’s castle
Castillo de Piria. Piriapolis, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Piria’s Castle was Francisco Piria’s original residence, constructed in 1897, and it’s extraordinary. Located directly alongside Route 37, the castle now houses a museum with guided tours available for visitors.
In this gem of a museum, you’ll find many pieces that were typical of pre-civil war Uruguay including period furniture, weapons, and a fantastic art collection. From the balconies you will be able to take in an amazing view of the city and the Cerro Pan de Azúcar keeping watch.
View towards Pan de Azucar from the Castillo de Piria. Piriapolis, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Relax down by the harbor
Piriapolis harbor. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
The harbor of Piriápolis was recently modernized and it’s become a local hot spot to sit back drinking mates and watching the boats roll in with their catch. Unlike other harbors, this one has a charming juxtaposition with modern yachts are docked next to humble fishermen boats.
Keep an eye open for the sea lions, who take advantage of comfy piers to take a nap under the sun. Don’t worry about waking next to them either, they are enjoying such a profound nap happily snoring along as people walk by to take pics. We almost threw a party next to them and they didn’t even bat a sleepy eye. It seems with a full belly the deeper they nap – fishermen who are cleaning their catch feed the sea lions fish; you’re in for a treat as they flutter in the water to catch a fish in the air.
Harbor in Piriapolis. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
The harbor is a perfect spot to walk around and take pictures of the boats, the sea, and with the backdrop of hills jutting from the coast, so have your camera ready. You can also opt for a different view of Piriápolis by taking a boat tour which is conveniently available in the harbor.
Visit the nearby beach towns
Pier in Punta Fria. Maldonado, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Punta Fría, San Francisco, Punta Colorada, and other beach towns, are within minutes of Piriápolis so make sure you stop by these spots as well. Not only you will get to know different beaches, but you will also capture amazing views. One of my favorite photography spots are the fish stalls located in Punta Fría. Not only I was able to take beautiful pictures of the fishermen boats, seagulls, and pier, but also buy the freshest fish. The seafood empanadas are specially delicious so make sure you try these!
Stroll down the Rambla de los Argentinos
Piriápolis, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Piriápolis’ best feature, and frankly its most memorable architectural aspect, is its Art Deco rambla. This unique design is seen throughout several kilometers of rambla, where locals hang out as they enjoy the beautiful landscape and great company. Note that it will get packed during summer as locals and visitors alike head to the boardwalk to get some exercise and walk with their “mate” or head down to the beach. I recommend you head there before sunset, as the sky dotted with pink and orange hues plays off the ocean and white pillars that mark the rambla.
Hotel Argentino. Piriapolis, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Constructed in 1930, it was one of the most impressive and largest hotels in South America in Pirapolis’ heyday. Strategically located in the Rambla de los Argentinos and offering beautiful views of the rambla and beach, it is the most iconic building in Piriápolis. Free WI-FI and breakfast is available for guests and spa facilities include 2 pools, a sauna, and a massage room. If you are feeling lucky, head to the casino located on campus. There are plans to restore its façade in the near future to reestablish this jewel to it’s original beauty.
Stop by the Piria church
Piria church. Piriapolis, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Piria started constructing this church back in 1917 but it was never finalized. Today, the church is in ruins and because of safety reasons visitors are not allowed to go in. However, the church ruins still offer a nice photo opportunity.
Piria church. Piriapolis, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Head to the Pittamiglio Castle
Castillo Pittamiglio. Las Flores, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Located in Las Flores (a 5-10 minute drive from Piriápolis) the Castillo Pittamiglio welcomes guest with its impressive medieval architecture and large gardens. The Castillo Pittamiglio was one of the residences of Humberto Pittamiglio, an architect who has designed some Avant Guard buildings throughout Uruguay and (also) an alchemist, He spent the last 10 years of his life residing in this castle.
Visitors can wander through the gardens which feature statues and fountains and visit a few rooms. There are also a couple of souvenir shops inside, including some alchemy shops in tribute its legendary owner.
Visiting hours during low season: 9 am to 4: 40 pm every day (Closed on Tuesdays).
High season: from 9 am to 8 pm every day.
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Conveniently located along the famed Uruguayan coast – only 10 minutes from Piriápolis – Punta Colorada offers the perfect trifecta: beautiful beaches with long stretches of sand, breathtaking sunsets, and a feeling of peaceful tranquility following you wherever you go.
When you arrive in Punta Colorada, you’re welcomed by the soothing sounds of birds happily chirping, incredibly fresh air, and the hypnotic sound of crashing waves. It’s easy to slip into total relaxation in this cozy town; grab a book, head to the beach, or walk/bike its unpaved roads and be ready to leave your worries aside. Oh, and the “southern hospitality” abounds in this small beachside town, don’t be surprised if unfamiliar people say hi to you – this town is full of friendly locals willing to have a casual chat as they meander through the day.
Originally a fishing village, Punta Colorada has significantly grown in the past few years; attracting those who want to escape from busy Montevideo and get lost in the slower coastal pace. Because believe it or not, time seems to go much slower when you are in Punta Colorada. There isn’t a lot to do in this sleepy beach town – and this is one of the reasons why I love it so much. There are no to-do lists, no packed schedules, and especially no rush; on the contrary, it offers the perfect relaxation spot to recharge and disconnect from the world.
La Brava beach. Punta Colorada, Uruguay. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Punta Colorada is tiny. There is a supermarket (called Las Estrellas) located on the main street where you can get basic groceries, as well as literally a couple of restaurants dotting the town. But that’s the extent of it. Because of municipal regulations, Punta Colorada is not allowed to build big commercial buildings, or get over developed like Punta del Este. However, its close location to Piriápolis, another stunning resort town, means in only a few minutes time you can have access to plenty of dining options, entertainment, and hotels.
Punta Colorada’s lighthouse. Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
The name Punta Colorada derives from the red color of the rocks that jut out into the sea. Below is a list of things you can do when visiting Punta Colorada:
Enjoy the beaches
La Brava. Punta Colorada, Uruguay. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
During the high season (January-February) beaches get filled with families and you’ll spot a large number of kids building sandcastles or swimming. Punta Colorada has two very distinct beaches which have the same names as the beaches in Punta del Este: La Brava and La Mansa.
La Mansa (west side): This is the perfect spot to watch the sunset and be stunned as the sky gets splashed with pink and orange hues. At this beach you’ll see plenty of families with kids as the ocean is calmer than in La Brava.
La Brava (east side): This beach is surrounded by a rough red landscape and offers great waves for surfing. It’s more frequented in the morning because afternoons can get pretty windy. Despite its name, this beach is perfectly safe most of the time but it has a stronger current than La Mansa as you’ll notice by the choppy waves. See if you can spot the skyscrapers on the horizon – they mark cosmopolitan Punta del Este’s skyline.
La Brava is a perfect spot for fishing as these waters are heavily populated by large croaker, brótolas, southern kingfish along with mackerel. If you are visiting Punta Colorada during the winter, bring your binoculars as you’ll be able to spot whales as they make their way to south – an unforgettable experience.
Go fishing
Pesquero La Batidora. Punta Colorada, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
Punta Colorada has ample fishing opportunities that draw both experts and amateurs alike. You can choose the laid-back approach, pull up a lawn chair along the beach or rambla and pass the hours fishing by the sea. The entire coastline is full of great spots, but if luck isn’t on your side you can always get fresh fish at one of the nearby fish stands. You can also charter a boat to do some offshore fishing in nearby Piriápolis.
Go sailing
You can’t leave Punta Colorada without going out on the ocean, and what better way to feel the salty waves than sailing. Just a short walk from La Mansa, you’ll find Punta Colorada’s Escuela de Velo y Remo (Sailing and Rowing School) where you can find classes for all levels. The school is open daily starting at 9:00 am.
Practice horseback riding
Horseback rididing in Punta Colorada. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
When in Uruguay, you have to go Gaucho – our versions of cowboys. Here in Punta Colorada you can find lessons at Juan Martin Caballos, a phenomenal teacher who will not only teach you the basics, but you’ll explores the surrounding hills like a true gaucho. Juan Martin Luzardo is an excellent teacher who takes students of all ages. If you ever wanted to learn the equestrian arts, this is the perfect opportunity. Contact Juan Martin via his Instagram (@juanmartin.caballos).
Enjoy the boardwalk
A recently constructed boardwalk gives you the opportunity to take a leisurely walk while you enjoy magnificent views of the sea and surroundings. The boardwalk maintains the town’s vibe and fusions with its laid back atmosphere. It’s specially nice during the early morning while the town is still asleep or in the afternoon when you can enjoy the beautiful sunsets.
Punta Colorada’s boardwalk. Uruguay. Credit, Carry on Caro
Surf
Take advantage of the spectacular waves and surfing conditions in Punta Colorada. This is the south Atlantic’s surfer’s paradise but you don’t need to be a pro to catch gnarly waves. There are surfing schools to teach all experience levels offering lessons throughout the day. We use a local instructor and have had a blast under his instruction. If you don’t have a wetsuit do not worry, you can rent one. Contact: Maxi via his instagram (@escueladesurftresquillas)
Sunset in Punta Colorada, Uruguay. Credit: Carla Nari
Punta Colorada is the perfect beach getaway to relax and get lost by the sea. This peaceful beach town offers an unforgettable setting with lots of picture-perfect moments. Remember to bring your camera as you’ll want capture amazing sunsets, the salty sea crashing against rust colored rocks, and those unforgettable moments that make this beach town.
Punta Colorada, Uruguay. Credit: Carry on Caro
What to bring to Punta Colorada
Binoculars: Head to the beach with your binoculars between June and November and try spotting the whales which visit the Uruguayan coast to mate and give birth.
Sunscreen: The sun is really strong in Uruguay so please come prepared. Supergoop! will protect your face from UVA, UVB, and IRA rays.
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Located off the beaten path, Cabo Polonio in Uruguay is a paradise for those looking to unplug.
Picture a town where there is no electricity, no running water, and unpaved roads. A tiny hamlet surrounded by primordial dunes and stunning beaches in a virtually untouched landscape. For many of us in the digital age, it’s hard to imagine a town like this exists today. But it does, and it’s called Cabo Polonio.
Located in the department of Rocha in Uruguay, Cabo Polonio began as a small fisherman village on an isolated beach but over the years, tourists and bohemian locals alike slowly began to settle in this wild but hidden gem. In an attempt to disconnect and live a simpler existence without the snares of the modern world, this small beach town began to come to life. Cabo Polonio -or simply Cabo- as it’s endearingly called by Uruguayans boasts a hippie vibe where freedom of all kinds exists untouched.
Beautiful Cabo Polonio. Credit: Christian Bergara
Today, it’s become a bohemian paradise, dotted with surf shacks and fishing abodes mixed with beach houses. Throughout the year there is a vast swing of the pendulum for the population; while the local hippies and fisherman stay year round, in the summer months it gets packed with “cool kids” looking to have a memorable summer forming a one-of-a-kind beach town.
In 2009, the entire area was made into a national park, preserving its wild beauty in perpetuity. While the hamlet still gets packed with the summer crowd, everyone must adhere to strict environmental rules, including extremely limited modern comforts.
It is said that the name Cabo Polonio derives from a ship called Polonio that shipwrecked on the cape’s shores and eventually sunk to the bottom of the ocean during the eighteenth century. However, recent research suggests the name could be attributed to the family name “Poloni” who was the captain of a ship that sunk near the cape.
What to do
Cabo Polonio offers the perfect place to relax and disconnect from the world including from all our daily to-do list and responsibilities. There aren’t a ton of activities to do in Cabo Polonio and perhaps this is one of the reasons which makes the town so especial. However, here is a list of activities that you shouldn’t miss when visiting this town.
Visit the lighthouse: An iconic attraction of Cabo Polonio, the lighthouse is hard to miss as it dominates the entire village. Climb 132 steps to get to the top platform and soak in breathtaking views of the town, the Torres islands, the sea lion reserve along with the dunes and beaches that surround Cabo Polonio.
The lighthouse of Cabo Polonio. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Enjoy the beautiful beaches: There are two beaches in Cabo Polonio with pristine white sand: La Calavera (to the north) and the Sur beach (to the south).
The Sur beach is where the 4X4 trucks enter to transport people to and from Cabo Polonio. You can reach the lighthouse if you walk on this beach and can marvel at the sea lion’s reserve.
If you enjoy walking on the beach, from La Calavera you can reach Cerro de la Buena Vista in Valizas. It’s about a 7km walk and you will be able to enjoy wonderful vistas towards Cabo, its beaches and dunes, and the colorful shacks. The view from here is defiantly worth hanging on your wall!
In summer, there are lifeguard services on both of these beaches.
Visit La Lobería: Located near the Cabo Polonio Lighthouse, La Lobería is a great place to marvel at the colony of sea lions and seals which coexist in harmony in their natural habitat. During the summer months, which is also the breeding season, the colony becomes really noisy as all the sea lions hang out on the rocks soaking up the sun. Both mothers and their cute children can be recognized by the sound they emit, so join the party with a hearty yell yourself!
The colony of sea lions and seals which coexist in harmony in Cabo. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Purchase artisanal crafts: Get a souvenir or two before you leave Cabo at one of the local handcrafts stands and support local businesses. Many shops have artisanal items that have been made with local materials.
Practice surfing: Cabo Polonio offers excellent waves for surfing; keep in mind that the water is usually on the cold side. Lessons for individuals or groups are available, and you can also rent surfboards and surfing gears. For surfers this is one of the best spots you’ll find in Uruguay.
Cabo Polonio. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Enjoy the amazing sunsets: I think I am not partial when I say this, but Uruguay has some of the world’s best sunsets. Head to Sur beach to admire the beautiful sunsets every day with some mate – the country’s national drink/passtime.
Where to stay
If you are visiting Cabo Polonio during the high season (Mid-December-February) remember to make your reservations in advance. Accommodations fill up really quickly. Keep in mind there are many hostels but you can also rent a house.
La Perla del Cabo: Located directly on the beach front and literally only steps away from La Calavera beach, this hotel offers private bathrooms, a restaurant-bar, as well as a terrace to relax in the evenings. There is also wi-fi available.
Viejo Lobo: A 1-minute walk from the beach and a 15-minute walk to the lighthouse, Viejo Lobo offers budget accommodations with sea views. All rooms have shared bathrooms and you will also find common kitchen facilities available to guests.
Narakan: Narakan offers beachfront accommodations and with the regular amenities you’ll find in Cabo, such as a restaurant and a bar. The hostel provides luggage storage space and free WiFi.
What you should bring
Cash: There are no ATMs, so remember to bring enough cash for your stay in Cabo.
Flashlight: You will need one during the night to navigate through the town at night.
Sunscreen: Remember that the sun is stronger in the Southern Hemisphere, especially from 12-3pm. Bring your sunscreen to avoid sunburn.
Where to eat
Salsipuedes: This coffee shop – open all year long – offers homemade cakes, empanadas, salads, juices, tacos, among other tasty treats.
El Timbó: This restaurant specializes in fish, seafood, beef (of course!), pasta and salads. Food is made from fresh local produce which will be served right to your table. This is as farm to table as you can get.
La Golosa: Enjoy the beautiful views of the sea when dining at this restaurant which offers a wide variety of dishes.
El Templao: Get your groceries and basic supplies at the only market (grocery and convenience store) in town.
Getting to Cabo Polonio
The massive 4X4 vehicles which cross the dune fields. Credit: Niki Biller
Cabo Polonio is located on highway 10 (264,5km). It’s a 3 hour and 30 minutes’ drive from Montevideo.
Once you arrive in Cabo, you will not be allowed to drive into the village and will have to take one of the massive 4X4 vehicles which cross the dune fields. It’s approximately a 20-minute ride to the village center. The cost is $U296 (US$7) per person. Children under 5 years old go for free. Keep in mind that you will only be able to pay in cash.
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Surrounded by several legends and stories, the lighthouse of Cabo Polonio offers breathtaking views as it stands guard over this one-of-a-kind town.
I am fascinated by lighthouses – maybe it’s because of their mysterious aura, the enigmatic legends and ghost stories which are always attached to them, or because it’s just easy to close your eyes and imagine a lighthouse shining brightly in the middle of a storm to prevent potential shipwrecks. Either way, if I’m visiting a town and there is a lighthouse, you can be sure that it will be included in my travel itinerary.
Obviously, when we visited Cabo Polonio back in 2019, a stop at the lighthouse was a must – and it’s conveniently located a short walk from the center of town. This lighthouse is one of the most iconic attractions of Cabo Polonio, standing tall above the tiny surf shacks, dominating the skyline and protecting the village. The platform on top offers breath-taking views of the town, the Torres islands, the beaches of Cabo Polonio, and the countless sea lions and seals who soak up the sun along the rocks.
Tip: Make sure you bring comfortable shoes/flip flops because to get to the top you will need to climb a total of 132 steps. The path to the lighthouse can be wet from ocean spray.
In 1976, the Cabo Polonio lighthouse was designated a Historical Monument of Uruguay and it is the most visited attraction in this sleepy bohemian beach town. The height of the lighthouse is 26 meters but combined with the elevation of the rocks where it sits on, it reaches 40 mts.
A bit of history
The lighthouse of Cabo Polonio. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
The lighthouse of Cabo Polonio was first lit on May 1, 1881 to prevent the frequent shipwrecks on the dangerous, rocky coastline.
The first lighting system was fueled by horse-fat, but it was later replaced by the grease or oil from the sea-lions as they were a plentiful resource living nearby on the beach. In the early days, keeping a lighthouse was not an easy task and was incredibly lonely. Lighthouse keepers would have to climb the long and winding staircase to reach the top of the tower to keep the flames alive. When it was “modernized” with a motor and gears, the salty environment would force the keeper to wind up the motor every three hours (what a workout!).
The lighthouse of Cabo Polonio. Credit: Niki Biller
The first lighthouse keeper, Pedro Grupillo, established the long-held tradition of using the lighthouse as his living quarters. Today, with all the trappings of modern transportation, Cabo Polonio can be a difficult journey to undergo; It’s amazing the capacity humans have to adapt to any environment, as back in the 1880s the trip must have much harder and life for him must have been extremely lonely!
In 1911, a new optics system was installed which significantly increased the power of the signal emitted by the lighthouse. With this improvement, the lighthouse of Cabo Polonio became a fundamental instrument for navigation in the area as one of the most powerful in the coast of Uruguay.
The legends
View towards the village. Credit: Niki Biller
Legend has it that when Cabo Polonio was an inhospitable and lonely fishing village – an unnamed lighthouse keeper, and his wife, arrived to perform the particularly important job of maintaining the beacon. The wife who was pregnant suddenly went into labor; the lighthouse keeper rushed to the capital to find a midwife who could assist with the delivery.
Unfortunately, a huge storm erupted on the village and delayed his return for almost a week. His wife who had no other choice but to give birth alone had to walk the 132 steps to the top every day, carrying her newborn in her arms, to ensure the beacon was lit every day to prevent shipwrecks.
This is where the legend gets murkier: over time the lighthouse served as a school for the small number of children and fishermen living in the village who couldn’t read. Some say, the teacher was none other than the lighthouse keeper’s wife – the same strong woman who braved giving birth alone and lighting the beacon every day.
And who doesn’t love a good pirate legend? I know my husband can’t miss one so I have to tell everyone: ship captains and pirates were afraid of the water surrounding the lighthouse as they believed the lighthouse was haunted! The ghosts trapped in the lighthouse held lots of power over the coast, causing compasses to spin wildly and instruments to stop functioning – these old sea dogs thought these ghosts caused all the shipwrecks by lulling the ships off course into the rocks.
Opening hours and entrance fees
The entrance fee costs $30 (US$0.60) and is open daily from 10 am to 1 pm and from 3 pm to 5 pm. Keep in mind that children under 8 years of age are not allowed to go up.
Getting to Cabo Polonio
View from one of the windows of the lighthouse of Cabo Polonio. Credit: Niki Biller
Cabo Polonio is located on highway 10 (264,5km). It’s a 3 hour and 30 minutes drive from Montevideo, the Uruguayan capital.
Once you arrive in Cabo, you will not be allowed to drive into the town so you will have to park your car and take one of the massive 4X4 trucks which are the only vehicles that can cross the dunes.
It’s approximately a 20-minute ride to reach the town. The cost is $U296 (US$7) per person. Children under 5 years old go for free. Keep in mind that you will only be able to pay in cash.
We are part of several affiliate programs including Viator and Amazon which means that we will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase through the links included in this post.