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Devils garden trail in Arches National Park: The best hike in the park

The Devils Garden Trail in Arches National Park offers visitors the chance to experience a one-of-a-kind park with several arches and amazing rock formations along the hike.

The Devils Garden Trail is hands down the best hike in Arches National Park so you definitely cannot miss it. Throughout the hike, you will encounter up close several arches, spires, and fins that will take your breath away. You’ll immediately notice the intense color spectrums that range from dark red to rusty hues, and as the sun hits, you’ll get vibrant, fiery oranges. Note that the pictures that are included in this post have not been Photoshopped. These amazing colors are all natural, just as we experienced them in person.

The Devils Garden Trail is located at the very end of the park road. It’s 18 miles north of Arches Visitor Center taking approximately 45 minutes pending stops and traffic (yes, traffic – Arches is one of the most visited parks in the US). Note that the parking lot of this trail can get packed very early in the morning, so plan accordingly. We recommend you arrive around 7:30 am so that you don’t have trouble finding parking. Additionally, in the morning the light will be best to take pictures of most of the arches.

Tip: The trail is quite challenging as it is a 7.9 miles (12.6 kms) hike and it involves steep exposures, uneven surfaces, along with a bit of rock scrambling. It took us around 4:30 hours to complete this trail. And yes, we were exhausted when we finally arrived back to our car.

The first part of the trail is really easy and quite flat. However, as you start hiking beyond the Landscape Arch, the trail gets more difficult, with some tricky footing. The good news is that you can turn around at any time and don’t need to hike the entire trail to enjoy some of the arches.

Distances

  • Landscape Arch and back: 1.9 miles (3.1 km)

  • Trails to Pine Tree and Tunnel Arches: Add 0.5 miles (0.8 km)
  • Double O Arch and back: 4.1 miles (6.6 km)
  • Trails to Navajo and Partition Arches: Add 0.8 miles (1.3 km)
  • Dark Angel and back via main trail: 4.9 miles (7.9 km)
  • Dark Angel; return via Primitive Trail: 6.6 miles (10.6 km)

Total distance: 7.9 miles (12.6 km)

The Devils Garden Trail

Once you park your car, head to the entrance of the trail. Here you will find bathrooms so make you sure you go if you need to since the hike ahead will take some time. The trailhead is well-marked with several signs letting you know what arch or landmark is coming next. The only part where we were a bit confused as to where we should go next is when we were hiking towards Double O Arch. We noticed that several people were lost as well as there were no clear signs as to where to go next. As with many trails in Moab, you’ll have to keep your eyes open for subtle signs such as cairns, or a very small sign post with an arrow head symbol.

Once you are on the trail, you first should take the spur to see two arches: Pine Tree Arch and Tunnel Arch which are located between the trailhead and Landscape Arch. This is a short detour well worth it as it’s only 0.5 miles round trip so really doable.

Arches National Park, Utah. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Arches National Park, Utah. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Tunnel Arch: While you can’t really get too close to the arch, it still deserves a picture, especially in the morning when the sun hits. If you are hiking this trail during the morning, you will get perfect lighting for photos. Continue to Pine Tree Arch.

Tunnel Arch. Arches National Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Tunnel Arch. Arches National Park, Utah. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Pine Tree Arch: This is a really nice arch that’s worth a quick visit. Again, the morning light will be perfect for a photo so don’t miss it. Retrace your steps and continue hiking to Landscape Arch.

Pine Tree Arch. Arches National Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Pine Tree Arch. Arches National Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Landscape Arch: The hike to Landscape Arch is quite easy as there haven’t been any significant elevation gain or huge ups and downs. In 1991, a 60-foot-long rock broke away from Landscape Arch’s right side causing massive rockfall; 180 tons of rocks were found on the ground. After this collapse, the trail which took visitors up and under the arch was closed and it remains closed today due to safety reasons.

Landscape Arch in Arches National Park, Utah. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Landscape Arch in Arches National Park, Utah. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Unfortunately, the eventual collapse of the arch is all too real, as the battle with gravity is always a losing one; so we should all take advantage and visit it before it’s too late. The best time to photograph this arch is in the early morning. You probably be tempted to take pictures of the arch as soon as you see it, however, you’ll find the best angles after a short walk down the trail.

Tip: Right after you see the Landscape Arch you’ll come up to a long sloping rock formation. In order to continue the hike you have to climb it and then go around. Hidden behind the formation is a small sign post, which is easily missed. This is one of the tougher parts of the trail and some visitors with balance issues did not continue; however, there were lots of young kids who were able to do this part easily.

Located one third of the way between Landscape Arch and Double O Arch you can make a short detour to visit two arches: Navajo Arch and Partition Arch. Adding these two arches to your hike will add 0.8 miles (1.3 km) but they are totally worth it. Partition Arch splits off Navajo’s arch trail. It doesn’t really matter which arch you visit first.

Navajo Arch: This arch looks more like a cave than an arch, and you can get “inside” for a cool view. When we visited it had rained the day before and there was water inside, forming a shallow pool, so we couldn’t really enjoy it. If you are pressed for time, this is the arch that I’d skip.

Navajo Arch, Arches National Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Navajo Arch, Arches National Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Partition Arch: This arch was among my favorites as it offers amazing views. The arch has two windows where you can enjoy one of the best views in the park. Take the opportunity to walk through the arch to the other side – you’ll walk through the massive window and enjoy the amazing landscape on the edge of the cliff giving you unexpected views.

Partition Arch. Arches National Park, Utah. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Tip: Before getting to Double O Arch you will see the “Black Arch Overlook”. Don’t forget to take a picture of this arch. You can’t get close to it but it provides a really nice photo that shouldn’t be missed.

Black Arch Overlook. Arches National Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Black Arch Overlook. Arches National Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Here is where the trail gets more challenging as you’ll have to climb up a rock formation (this time, it’s similar to a massive ramp). Be careful as there are narrow ledges with steep drop-offs as well as elevation gain, and the footing you’ll come across can be slippery. As the trail gets more challenging, it also gets more stunning – some of our favorite photos we took are from this part of the hike. Take some time to enjoy the amazing rock formations all around you. Here you will probably spend some time taking quite a few pictures.

Devils garden trail in Arches National Park, Utah. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Devils garden trail in Arches National Park, Utah. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Double O Arch: You’ll need to use your hands and feet to climb during parts of this trail, as this third path on a rock formation is awkward – it slants downwards, so you’ll need to keep your balance; a broad range of age and experience crossed this path, so you don’t need to be an expert to continue. Even though this part of the hike is challenging, we recommend that if you can, you do it as it offers amazing views all around. We had some issues photographing this arch as, by the time we reached this point, the light was not the best. It’s probably better to photograph this arch in the afternoon. From here continue hiking to Dark Angel.

Double O Arch ​in Arches National Park, Utah. Credit: Carolina Valenzuel
Double O Arch in Arches National Park, Utah. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Dark Angel: Dark Angel is a sandstone “tower” located 0.5 a mile to the northwest of Double O Arch. You don’t really have to go all the way to photograph it, as it looms over the landscape, so if you are feeling tired feel free to go back at any time. Once we reached Dark Angel, we turned back and retraced our steps to the beginning of the trail. Since it had rained the day before we were advised by a park ranger that we shouldn’t take the Primitive Trail as there were areas with dangerously high water.

Dark Angel. Arches National Park, Utah. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Dark Angel. Arches National Park, Utah. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Not taking the primitive trail meant that we were not able to visit the Private Arch. Something to add to our to do list the next time that we are in Arches National Park!

Tip: Take advantage and take a picture of Double O Arch from behind as you walk towards Dark Angel.

What you should bring

Hiking shoes: Hiking shoes are an absolute must for this trail. Make sure they have good traction as you will be scrambling through rocks and part of the trail can be slippery.

North Face Trail Escape Edge: My husband wore these during the trip and was very happy with how well they functioned even through the harder parts of the trails. Note these are not waterproof, but we didn’t count for such intense rain in a desert…

North Face Women’s Hedgehog Fastpack: This waterproof hiking shoe should have been the shoe for this hike, but I left them at home. This trip stressed how important it is to bring an appropriate shoe – I wore the winter hiking boots I took to Patagonia, but it was the wrong shoe for this terrain.

Sunscreen: Since this hike will take you several hours and there will be hardly any shade make sure you wear sunscreen to avoid a sunburn. As always, I recommend Supergoop! for your face and Coppertone for your body. Bring the sunscreen with you and apply after a couple of hours.

Comfortable hiking socks: My husband swears by these ankle high socks and has always told me that they provide comfort and absorb moisture really well. The socks fit most mens sizes (from 6-12) and are also comfortable for some women. If you feel they won’t fit and need a second option, Merrell has a great pair for women.

We are part of several affiliate programs including Amazon and Viator which means that we will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase through the links included in this post.

Things to do in Custer state park, South Dakota

Custer State Park is among South Dakota’s must-see places. The park allows you to see an abundance of wildlife living in their natural habitat, be awed by stunning granite formations, experience thrilling scenic drives and amazing hiking trails.

Custer State Park can be enjoyed at any time of the year, but the best months are during the shoulder seasons, so you avoid the worst heat and cold temperatures. In the fall you will have the added benefit of seeing the leaves change color – a magnificent spectacle. We visited during summer, and it was hard to be outside during the peak hours without feeling that we were going to melt at any point due to the heat; weather on the Great Plains can be extreme.

We visited Custer State Park for 2 days. You can definitely see the major attractions in one day, but we preferred to take our time and really enjoy the park’s beauty without having to rush. Two days will let you hike a few trails, drive the park’s scenic routes, and admire the granite formations from different perspectives.

Custer State Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Custer State Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Below are some of the activities you can do while visiting Custer State Park.

Go hiking

Cathedral Spires trail. Custer State Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Cathedral Spires

There are over twenty trails to choose from in Custer State Park, all offering amazing views and great photo opportunities. Going hiking will give you a chance to experience the park in a different way and really take in the beauty all around you.

Below are some of our favorites:

Cathedral spires trail: This hike is a must when visiting Custer State Park. Located south of Sylvan Lake on the park’s Needless Highway, the Cathedral Spires Trail will offer the chance to marvel at some highly unusual rock formations that will be engraved in your memory. The hike is 2.3 miles round trip and not too difficult.

Read blog: Cathedral Spires Trail: What you should know before you go

Little Devils Tower: This trail is located less than one mile south of the Sylvan Lake General Store on Needles Highway, but it can also be accessed from the Cathedral Spires Trail. This is a very fun hike as in the last half mile you will have to face a steep rocky incline with large granite boulders – the view will blow you away! This hike is 1.5 miles one way and offers magnificent views of the Black Hills.

Read blog: Little Devils Tower Trail: A must do hike in Custer State Park

Sylvan Lakeshore Trail: This trail can be accessed from any portion of Sylvan Lake and offers a great opportunity to stroll around the lake and experience the granite formations from different perspectives. It’s a great relaxing trek, and you can dive into the lake to cool down anytime. It’s approximately a 1-mile loop and mostly flat hike so don’t miss it.

Sylvan Lake, Custer State Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Black Elk Peak Trail: This trail shares the Little Devils Tower Trail and it’s a strenuous hike. It’s 3.25 miles one way and offers magnificent views of South Dakota, Wyoming, Montana, Nebraska and North Dakota! The peak also features a stone fire tower built in 1938 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, which is easily spotted during the hike.

Drive the park’s scenic roads

This park is perfect for those who love to cruise. Explore the park’s winding roads including Needles Highway, Iron Mountain Road and the Peter Norbeck Scenic Highway for one of America’s unforgettable drives.

Tip: If you are prone to getting dizzy when driving in winding roads bring along Dramamine.

Needles Highway: This must be among the most beautiful highways I have ever driven on. It’s a 14-mile road which takes you through forest and majestic mountains in the Black Hills region. It’s name, Needles Highway, comes from the gigantic needle-like granite formations that are found all along the highway.

When driving along the highway, stop at the Needles Eye Tunnel. You will see there are a few parking spots available next to the tunnel. Park your car and take the opportunity to photograph Needles Eye – an amazing rock formation that looks like a needle. It’s best to photograph Needles Eye in the morning when the sun won’t damage your pictures. This spot is also a great area to photograph gorgeous rock formations and see if you can spot mountain goats!

Custer State Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Custer State Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Travel time: 45-60 minutes I Closed in winter I 14 miles

Iron Mountain Road: This winding road runs between Mount Rushmore National Memorial and the junction of US 16A and SD 36. Iron Mountain Road will let you soak in the spectacular black hills scenery, tunnels framing Mount Rushmore and amazing bridges. Consider this the local’s scenic route.

Custer State Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Custer State Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Travel time: 45-60 minutes I 18 miles

Wildlife Loop Road: Travel through the grasslands and pine-covered hills where you get the chance to spot the wildlife which lives in Custer State Park. We recommend you drive during the early morning or late afternoon which is when the wildlife is most active. Nearly 1,300 bison wander the park’s 71,000 acres, so hopefully you will be able to see the buffalo (we drove the loop road twice and the first time we didn’t see any wildlife). Keep in mind that you won’t be allowed to get close to them; my husband tried and got yelled at by the park rangers. Bison are fast and dangerous so stay inside your car. Bighorn sheep, pronghorn, deer, elk, coyote, prairie dogs can also be seen while driving the Wildlife Loop Road.

Travel time: 45 minute I Open year round I 18 miles

Custer State Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Custer State Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Peter Norbeck Scenic Highway: This 70-mile byway includes spiraling bridges, thrilling curves and granite tunnels. It has been named one of the 10 Most Outstanding Byways in America and for good reason. Expect the traveling time to be around 2-3 hours. Here you can see some of the most amazing site including the Needles, Mount Rushmore and the Black Hills National Forrest.

Travel time: 2-3 hours I 70-mile

Watch the burros up close

While driving the Wildlife Loop Road, make a stop near the southeastern tip of the road where the burros can be found and will beg for snacks from vehicles. According to the park’s rules you are not allowed to feed any wildlife in the park, so understand the potential risks of interactions with the burros. Here you might find a bit of a traffic jams with several cars waiting to admire these wonderful creatures.

Go swimming, boating or fishing

The park is a perfect summer swimming hole; you can swim at any of the park’s five lakes: Center Lake, Legion Lake, Stockade Lake, Sylvan Lake and the Game Lodge Pond. Note that no lifeguards are on duty so exercise caution. Also, jumping from cliffs or rocks is strictly prohibited. You can rent a boat to enjoy the peaceful water of the lakes. If you prefer fishing, note that while fishing is allowed anywhere in Custer State Park, you will need to purchase a fishing license.

Experience the buffalo round up

The roundup takes place once a year near the corrals on the Wildlife Loop Road and it’s a way to manage the size of the herd while also providing an opportunity to brand and vaccinate the calves. There are two viewing areas for spectators – the north and the south. Reservations are not required. This is a sure way to get your chance to see buffalo up-close.

Entrance fees

A temporary pass allows you to enter the park for 7 consecutive days costs $20 per vehicle. Alternatively you can get an annual park entrance pass for $36.

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Little Devils Tower Trail: A must do hike in Custer State Park

If you’re looking for a fun hike with little crowds and jaw dropping views, Little Devils Tower can’t be beat.

Custer State Park is full of fun hiking trails and even more amazing views. Little Devils Tower does not disappoint and has an option for every experience level. You can have a half day hike that will take you from the start of the trail to the peak or combine it for a full day adventure with Black Elk’s Peak. If you are heading to the Cathedral Spires, this is the best option for the hike – especially if you are a casual hiker – and there is only one elevation that is moderately difficult.

Little Devils Tower is a sheer, tall granite rock formation reaching 7,002 ft. in elevation, an impressive height which is mostly an easy hike along the trail. While only 200 feet shorter than Black Elk Peak, Little Devils Tower has an absolute gem for a view: spectacular 360-degree views that rival any others found in the park. When you reach the summit, you’ll get views of Cathedral spires, Black Elk’s Peak and Harney Peak (the tallest point east of the Rockies until Europe itself).

Hiking the trail:

Little Devils Tower trail, Custer State Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Little Devils Tower trail, Custer State Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

The trail starts at the Little Devils Tower Trailhead is a short drive from Sylvan Lake on Highway 87, with a parking area conveniently available. Trail #4 leads to the summit of Little Devils Tower, which is the route you want to take if you choose to do the full trail. You’ll hike Trail #4 for around 1/2 mile until a fork in the trail – take the one to Little Devils Tower. During the hike you’ll come across a few spur trails that leads to overlooks; a couple will have places to rest, including one with a bench with a sensational view.

If you decide to combine the hike with other trails, you generally have two options: Black Elk’s Peak or Cathedral Spires. The longer option is to combine the hike with Black Elk’s Peak; be prepared for a full day of hiking and an early start. Given our short time in this part of South Dakota, we decided to combine the hike with Cathedral Spires – we highly recommend you do the same.

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Little Devils Tower trail, Custer State Park. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

By taking the trail from Cathedral Spires, you are essentially cutting the hike in half. As you climb to the end of the Spires trail, you’ll come across a post signaling a fork in the road; if you take a left you’ll be end up on Trail #4 after a short walk, if you take a right you’ll end up at the Spires. This shortcut also drops you off really close to an overlook with a bench – do not miss the chance to soak in the view.

IMG 2369 IMG 2362

Around a mile into the hike (starting at the beginning of Trail #4), the trail will lead to a large granite crevasse. This is by far the most difficult part of the hike, as you will have to awkwardly climb up and down this steep crevasse to get to the summit. From here it’s an easier climb to the best part of the hike – the killer views. You may even get lucky and see mountain goats doing what they do best, climbing the rocks.

Tip: While hiking, you can take some time to explore the Noble Mica Mine or one of the many overlooks. The mine is a short walk from the main trail.

What to bring:

Hiking shoes: Wearing hiking shoes will be really helpful as there are a lot of rocks to climb during this hike. Here are our recommendations:

For women: Oboz sawtooth II low b-dry hiking shoe

For men: Oboz sawtooth II low b-dry hiking shoe

Mosquito repellent: Avoid getting bitten during the hike. The Sawyer Products SP534 Ultra 30% Insect Repellent Lotion, is highly effective against bugs.

Water: The hike will make you really thirsty. Bring along the Nomader Collapsible Water Bottle which rolls up for compact travel.

Sunscreen: Avoid getting a sunburn. We recommend Supergoop! SPF40 for your face and Coppertone for your body.

Fees

A temporary (1-7 days) license is $20 per vehicle. An annual park entrance license is $36 and you can buy a second annual park entrance license for $18.Hours. Note that a National Parks pass will not work as this is a state and not a federal park.

Hours

Custer State Park is open year-round, 24 hours per day.

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DEVILS TOWER HIKING TRAILS YOU CAN’T MISS

The Devils Tower hiking trails will give you the opportunity to be amazed at the tall rock columns and explore the tower from a 360 perspective.

Designated as the first ever US National Park by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1906, Devils Tower is steeped in wonder and surrounded by legends. While no one knows how the formation came to be, one Native American legend has it that a giant bear clawed the grooves into the mountainside while chasing several maidens.

The Bear motif is intrinsic to Devils Tower as the formation is commonly known among northern plains tribes by Bears Lodge; making the tower a sacred site for Native Americans. A more modern legend may come to mind as the tower was showcased in the classic sci-fi film “Close Encounters of the Third Kind”. The tower is a perfect place to spend the day, as you can take a variety of hikes, do some rock climbing and study the unique formation up close.

Devils Tower, Wyoming. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Devils Tower, Wyoming. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Even if you are not into geology, you can’t help but marvel at the weirdness of the tower’s details. Devils Tower is an amazing geological foundation composed of symmetrical columns which are the tallest and widest in the word. They almost look like an upside-down mop or giant cables enclosing the tower. If you look closely at the columns you will see they are 4-,5-,6-, and even 7 sided; these are also beyond massive, and you’ll get a chance to see that size when you come across some of the fallen columns.

If you are too nervous about rock climbing, like we were, the best thing to do is to go on one or two hikes while visiting Devils Tower. The park offers multiple trails for all levels of experience. You can take a simple walk around the tower or cut through the prairie to get killer pictures. The five trails outlined below provide the best views of Devils Tower. Because we were only at Devils Tower for a couple of hours -and had to deal with the threat of a major, fast approaching, thunderstorm – we only had time to do the tower trail.

Note that some trails can take you approximately 30 minutes while others can take you several hours – don’t worry there are many options to choose from!

Tip: Devils Tower is open year-round, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Note that pets are not allowed on any of the park’s trails.

Hiking trails

Here is an overview of the different hikes you can do while visiting Devils Tower:

Joyner Ridge Trail: This is a 1.5-mile (2.4 km) loop trail that follows Joyner Ridge and dips down into the draw below. While we didn’t hike this trail, we came it across on our way back, and it’s a great thing we did – it provided the best setting to take that iconic Devils Tower photo. The view from the start of the trail is my absolute favorite, and the one my husband badgered me about taking for the entire drive (banner photo).

Here you can see the prairie all around with Devils Tower jutting out of the flat landscape in the background. It captures the majestic nature of the tower perfectly, and truly puts such a jaw dropping formation into perspective. It’s no small wonder this place is full of legends and stories.

If you don’t hike this trail, make sure to at least visit the entrance for a few minutes to take a bunch of photos. To access the trail, take the dirt road from the main park road as you leave the visitor center parking lot. There is a very small parking lot where you can leave the car when you reach the trail.

Devils Tower, Wyoming. Credit: Christian Bergara
Devils Tower, Wyoming. Credit: Christian Bergara

Red Beds Trail: The Red Beds Trail is a 2.8-mile (4.5 km) loop which offers amazing views of both the Tower, surrounding Belle Fourche River valley and geologic formations. You will also get an up-close look at the Towers’ red sandstone base. If we had more time, or better weather, we would have definitely hiked this trail.

You can access this trail from the visitor center parking lot and also from all other park trails. The Red Beds Trail has some steep sections as you will have to climb up and down between the river valley and visitor center.

Tower Trail: The Tower Trail is among the most popular, easiest, and therefore can get very crowded. It’s a paved 1.3-mile (2 km) trail that starts across the visitor center parking area and circles the base of Devils Tower. According to Lakota tradition, it’s better to hike the Tower on a clockwise direction. Personally, I found the best views from the Tower can be found towards the end of the trail if you are doing this hike clockwise.

Watch for the colorful cloths or small bundles attached to the trees. These are Native American prayer cloths and represent the spiritual connection many tribes have with the Tower. It’s important to not touch or remove these cloths. The heavy influence of COVID-19 can also be found on the trees as some have added face masks along with the pieces of cloth. There are also several benches along the trail where you can rest while you enjoy the amazing views.

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Tip: When hiking this trail see if you can spot the “window”, one of the Tower’s most distinctive features. The window is a 300-foot alcove located above the boulder field.

South Side Trail: This trail is pretty short: it’s only a 0.6-mile (1 km) trail and there is almost no elevation gain. The South Side Trail begins from the amphitheater and continues through the prairie dog town to link into Red Beds Trail. It’s a nice detour if you are hiking Red Beds.

Valley View Trail: This is another short trail: 0.6 mile (1 km) with only a slight elevation gain. The Valley View Trail also connects to the Red Beds Trail and offers amazing views of the Belle Fourche River. Definitely worth the time if you are hiking Red Beds, and the weather cooperates.

What to bring

Hiking shoes: Essential, especially if you are hiking the longer trails. Here are our recommendations:

For women: Oboz sawtooth II low b-dry hiking shoe

For men: Oboz sawtooth II low b-dry hiking shoe

Mosquito repellent: Nothing more annoying than having to deal with bugs when hiking. We recommend you bring the Sawyer Insect Repellent Lotion, which is effective against all the bugs you find in the northern plain including mosquitoes, ticks, flies, chiggers, and fleas.

Water: The Nomader Collapsible Water Bottle is sturdy and comfortable to drink from; rolls up for compact travel; loops around your wrist for easy carry; and attaches to your bag for quick access.

Sunscreen: Protect your skin while you are in the outdoors. We recommend Supergoop! SPF40 for your face and Coppertone for your body.

Poncho/Waterproof jacket: Make sure to bring a lightweight waterproof jacket or at least a poncho if you are visiting over the summer. Storms will pop up and you will want to stay dry if you are on a hike.

For women we recommend the North Face Women’s Resolve Parka II Waterproof Jacket, and for men The North Face Men’s Resolve Waterproof Jacket. If you want to only take a poncho, we recommend this waterproof Poncho.

We are part of several affiliate programs including Amazon and Viator which means that we will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase through the links included in this post.

Cathedral Spires trail: What you should know before you go

The Cathedral Spires trail is one of the most stunning hikes found in Custer State Park in South Dakota.

The Cathedral Spires trail is located south of Sylvan Lake on the state park’s famous Needless Highway. As you can guess from the name, the hike takes you directly to the Cathedral Spires, or “The Spires” as locals call them.

These Spires are stunning, and highly unusual rock formations, which were formed millions of years ago and slowly eroded into granite formations that look like claws jutting out of the landscape. Because of their unique beauty, they are a registered national natural landmark within the state park. This is definitely a trail you shouldn’t miss – not only do you go through some beautiful forested areas, but once you reach the Spires it’ll feel like you are about to climb Mount Doom with Frodo Baggins in Lord of the Rings.

Cathedral Spires trail. Custer State Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Cathedral Spires trail. Custer State Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

The length of the hike is about 2.3 miles round trip with an elevation gain of 500 feet. It can take you approximately 1:30-3 hours depending on how long you stop for pictures, or how long you want to hang out in this gorgeous trail; of course, your fitness level will also determine how long you need to hike.

This trail is marked as “moderate to strenuous” on the sign that leads to the hike because there is a steep section over boulders you will need to climb – this is by far the toughest part of the hike. There are other some parts where you will encounter rocky areas and might be a bit more daunting, but all in all it shouldn’t be too hard.

Tip: In the summer, be prepared for thunderstorms which can bring along hail, lighting, and rain. Make sure you bring the appropriate clothing (more on this later on the blog).

Cathedral Spires trail. Custer State Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Cathedral Spires trail. Custer State Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

The Cathedral Spires hike

There is a very small parking section in the beginning of the trail; many try to park on the side of the curved road to get some extra space. When you park, you’ll immediately notice rock formations at the start of the trail which will give you a small taste of what is yet to come. Trust me when I tell you that this hike is totally worth the physical effort, as soon as you reach the Cathedral Spires you will be floored! The amazing views and opportunity to explore the area will lead to some memorable photos.

Cathedral Spires trail. Custer State Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Cathedral Spires trail. Custer State Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Tip: Custer State Park hosts a scavenger hunt throughout its many trails and attractions. The Spires is the site of one, so keep your eyes peeled for the clue!

To follow the trail, look for the painted blue diamonds identifying the path you need to take; the diamonds can be found either on rocks or trees. At the beginning of the trail, you will have to go up a few wooden steps, which are wider than you would expect. There are also several streams crossing from the trail including one where you will need to practice your balance skills! Remember you don’t need to be a mountain goat to hike this trail, but it has some challenging sections.

After a steep climb you will arrive at the base of the Cathedral Spires where you can find the best views of this amazing rock formations. You can continue following the trail until the end where you can find a couple areas to sit and relax. For the views it’s not really worth it, as the best view/photos is when you reach the canyon and you’ll just need to turn around.

Tip: You can combine the Cathedral Spires hike with the Little Devils Tower trail and Black Elk Peak trail #4. You will find a sign indicating the branch for these hikes in the Cathedral Spires trail. You can take a short cut to Little Devils Tower cutting your time in half by using the trail fork from the Spires. We highly recommend to do so you’ll save time and lots of energy.

Cathedral Spires trail. Custer State Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Cathedral Spires trail. Custer State Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Parking

There is a small parking space at the start of the trail located on Needles Highway. We highly recommend that you visit the Cathedral Spires early in the morning as it can get very busy and you probably will have a hard time to find parking.

What to bring

Sturdy shoes: Make sure they are suitable for rugged terrain. Even though we hiked in sneakers and we did just fine, it’s better to bring hiking shoes especially if the weather doesn’t cooperate with you. Below are our recommendations:

For women: Oboz sawtooth II low b-dry hiking shoe

For men: Oboz sawtooth II low b-dry hiking shoe

Water: Essential for when you are doing any hike. The Nomader Collapsible Water Bottle is a great choice as it is sturdy and comfortable to drink from; rolls up for compact travel; and attaches to your bag for quick access.

Extra clothes: It will be colder and windier as you go up. Make sure you bring a light jacket so that you don’t feel cold when you reach the Cathedral Spires.

Sunscreen: Vital during any hike! Protect your face by wearing Supergoop! and your body by wearing Coppertone.

We are part of several affiliate programs including Amazon and Viator which means that we will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase through the links included in this blog.

Crazy Horse Monument, South Dakota: How to plan your visit

The Crazy Horse Monument, South Dakota, gives you the chance to have access to one of the best Native American cultural experiences in the country.

It’s always been about some version of cowboys vs Indians bouncing around my head. Some of my earliest memories were dressed up from head to toes in full Washington Redskins gear cheering the team on against the hated Dallas Cowboys. As I’ve grown older, this theme has played out time and time again leading to a love of all things Native American; eventually leading, in my opinion, to one of the most fascinating people in history – Crazy Horse. Coming to this memorial you are witnessing history in the making.

Crazy Horse is one of those figures in history that make other men look insignificant – a person who put the needs of his people above his own eventually leading to the ultimate sacrifice. I’ve always been fascinated by these larger-than-life heroes, who grow to mythic proportions in one’s imagination. It’s only appropriate that when we arrived at the memorial, we saw the most ambitious sculpture – Crazy Horse literally being carved out from a mountain. Simply put this was a jaw dropping moment. While you only have his head and top of his arm carved, it’s impressive to see how the mountain is transforming into a hero mounted on his horse pointing the way for his people.

Who was Crazy Horse?

Crazy Horse, born as a member of the Oglala Lakota tribe about 40 miles away from the current memorial site, lived during one of the most tumultuous periods of the American West. His story, that of war, leadership, and ultimately betrayal, is quintessential to the history of the West.

His most famous moment in history was the Battle of Little Big Horn which, in 1876, Crazy Horse shined in all his warrior glory leading a band of Lakota against Custer’s Seventh U.S. Cavalry battalion. Thanks to his leadership, the battle was a victory for the Lakota people – Custer and 289 others lay dead versus only 32 Indians. This was considered the biggest defeat ever to the United States Army until the 20th century.

To do the man justice, I recommend you read this excellent book, The Journey of Crazy Horse: A Lakota History, written by a member of the Oglala Lakota. The museum itself has a great summary about Crazy Horse’s life and what he meant to both his people, and the West on their website.

About the Memorial

When Chief Henry Standing Bear and other Lakota Chiefs partnered with sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski to begin work on the memorial, Ziolkowski had to rely on the descriptions from surviving members of the Battle of Little Bighorn. Crazy Horse was infamous for refusing to have his picture taken; like others he believed the camera stole a person’s soul.

Read blog: What to see at Mount Rushmore: 8 things you can’t miss

The Crazy Horse Memorial represents a hero for Native Americans, carved out of their sacred hills of their own accord. It is no accident the memorial is juxtaposed so closely to Mt. Rushmore – Chief Standing Bear proudly stated to Ziolkowski “My fellow chiefs and I would like the white man to know that the red man has great heroes also.”

In accordance with both Chief Standing Bear and Ziolkowski, the memorial has created a scholarship fund for Native Americans. Thus, the memorial is not just a sculpture but a key actor in the community.

What you can do

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There’s lots of stuff to do on the memorial grounds, so take some time to explore.

Take a bus to get closer to the memorial: Take a bus to get to the bottom of the mountain and get a close-up view of Crazy Horse. The cost is $4 per person and it’s approximately a 25 minute round-trip. This is also a great opportunity to learn plenty of interesting facts about the Memorial.

Join a trip to the top of the mountain:Van rides to the top of the mountain are available through charitable giving to Crazy Horse Memorial. These rides are offered from Monday to Friday in the afternoon and all day on Saturdays and Sundays.

Visit the Native American Educational and Cultural Center: This on-site museum (built directly from rock blasted off the mountain during carving) features lots of original artifacts from all Native American tribes and nations. Personally, I loved this museum as I could see the actual headdress of Black Elk, weapons used by warriors during Little big Horn, and cultural items from all over the North America. What really surprised me was the number of original items that were exhibited throughout the museum. On top of museum you’ll have plenty of hands on cultural activities such as storytelling sessions, traditional dances, and learning to play traditional instruments.

Crazy Horse National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Christian Bergara
Crazy Horse National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Christian Bergara

Stop by the Laughing Water Restaurant: If you’re hungry there is a restaurant right across the museum courtyard with a spectacular view called Laughing Water Restaurant. You’ll have local and traditional menu items to choose from, like the Tatanka Stew, made from local Buffalo, or the Native American Taco which is served on traditional fry bread.

Visit Ziolkowski carving gallery: For those how are interested in the work and life of Ziolkowski, you can visit his carving gallery, which further memorializes Native American culture, or stop by the original log home called the “Big Room”.

Enjoy the Legends in Light Laser Show: If you are visiting the Crazy Horse Memorial between May 28, 2021 through September 30, 2021 enjoy a laser-light show which uses the Mountainside as a giant 500-foot “screen”. In addition to featuring colorful animations, the show features sound effects and laser beams choreographed to music.

Will Crazy Horse Memorial ever be finished?

Yes…one day! The current plan’s focus for the next 5 years is finishing the head, half the hair, shoulders, part of the chest, the extended arm and the horse’s head. However, this is an ideal plan if weather and funding cooperate.

The entire memorial is funded by public donations, this includes the administrative costs of running the park, the museum, and the work on the sculpture itself. This is the main reason as to why the sculpture has taken so long to complete; the other is due to the immense amount of rock they had to blast in order to start sculpting. All fees in the park – from entrance fees to bus rides – go directly to the operation of the memorial. As you can imagine, taking federal funds would be a betrayal to both Crazy Horse and the Lakota, so any little extra you donate is an immense step towards completion.

While Ziolkowski has passed away, his family has continued on his legacy in sculpting the memorial and ensuring the same principles are continued to be followed.

How long does it take to go through Crazy Horse Memorial?

You can spend quite a bit of time here as the memorial offers a variety of museums, tours, and events. Expect anywhere from 1-3 hours depending on the event schedule.

Tip: Events are all based around local Native American culture and history. You can enjoy special events, daily shows, cultural workshops and more.

Entrance Fee

Admission to the memorial is about $30, depending on how many people are in your vehicle when you pull up. The memorial’s website has a breakdown of cost, and the entrance fee is good for a readmittance to the memorial grounds that lasts up to three days.

Tip: The bus ride around the memorial is not included, but it’s only $4 per person extra. The guided van tour is a $125 per persona but is a charitable donation used to finish the monument.

Hours

The memorial is open year-round and usually from 8am-9pm. However, the times can change due to time of year and or events. Make sure to visit their website to get a detailed update.

Location

12151 Avenue of the Chiefs, Crazy Horse, SD 57730. The Crazy Horse Memorial is located:

  • 17 miles from Mt Rushmore
  • 11 miles from Custer State Park
  • 10 miles from Hill City
  • 4 miles from Custer

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What to see at Mount Rushmore: 8 things you can’t miss

Learn about what you can’t miss when visiting this national monument.

When you think of South Dakota, Mount Rushmore is typically the first thing that comes to mind. Located in Keystone, the Mount Rushmore National Memorial pays tribute to four US presidents who symbolize the ideals of freedom and democracy.

The 60-foot four presidential figures were carved into Mount Rushmore in the Black Hills region of South Dakota. Gutzon Borglum was the visionary behind the sculpture’s design and oversaw the project’s execution, done in an exhausting pace, from 1927 to 1941 with the help of his son.

Borglum selected the four presidents he believed represented the most important events in American history: George Washington, the first president; Thomas Jefferson, who drafted the Declaration of independence; Theodore Roosevelt, who spearheaded the nation into the future while protecting its most valued resource by creating National Parks; and Abraham Lincoln, who preserved the Union in its most difficult period.

Mount Rushmore, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Mount Rushmore, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Over 450,000 tons of rock were removed from Mount Rushmore to be able to sculpt the four presidential faces. In all, 90% of the rock had to be removed with dynamite, just to being sculpting; the remaining work involved drilling with jackhammers and wedging the rock off the mountain.

We visited Mount Rushmore twice: once in the morning and we went back in the evening for the lighting ceremony. Below are a few considerations and tips you should know about when planning a visit to Mount Rushmore.

You don’t need a lot of time in Mount Rushmore and you can combine your visit with Crazy Horse. However, we do recommend you walk the Presidential Trail – it was the highlight of our visit. Plan to spend between 1-2 hours.

When should you visit Mount Rushmore?

Over 2 million visitors visit Mount Rushmore every year with the busiest months being June, July, and August. I recommend you visit Mount Rushmore in the early morning, as it’s the best time to take the iconic photo of the four presidents. You’ll not only have great lighting but the park will be fairly empty.

There are several activities you can do when visiting Mount Rushmore. See below our favorites:

What can you do in Mount Rushmore?

Presidential Trail, Mount Rushmore. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Presidential Trail, Mount Rushmore. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Walk the Presidential Trail: The Presidential Trail is a 0.6 mile walk which has a total of 422 steps scattered throughout. It’s not difficult to do, so if you have time, I highly recommend that you walk the whole trail. Watch for the wildlife – we saw a few deer when walking the trail.

Tip: If you are feeling tired, walk the trail in a clockwise direction, as you will go down the stairs instead of up for most of the trail. However, in my opinion the best pictures (the presidents’ faces framed by trees) are closer to the end of the trail, so if you are short for time walk the trail on the opposite direction.

As you “get closer” to each of the presidents, there are a few signs where you can learn some basic information about each, including when they were born, career and national highlights, among others.

Take an amazing photo of George Washington from stop 15 of the Presidential Trail: Stop 15 in the trail is a cave. Please go in as you will be able to take a great shot of George Washington. When you walk into the cave you will notice a whole where you can see George Washington’s face.

George Washington. Mount Rushmore. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
George Washington. Mount Rushmore. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Walk the Avenue of Flags: The Avenue of Flags showcases flags which represent 56 states and territories. There is a great photo opportunity here where you can capture the flags and the presidential faces in the background.

Avenue of Flags, Mount Rushmore. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Avenue of Flags, Mount Rushmore. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Get an ice cream made with Jefferson’s original recipe: Head to the Carvers Café to try the vanilla ice cream based on Thomas Jefferson’s original recipe from 1780. It’s delicious! Note that you can purchase ice cream at the café from 11:00 am to 9:00 pm. There was quite a line when we decided to get the ice cream so be prepared to have to wait. The best part: they serve massive portions!

Witness the lighting ceremony: From May through September, you can watch a ceremony at the outdoor Amphitheater. This is an opportunity to watch a video, the flag lowering ceremony, and the salute to veterans. The ceremony culminates with the lighting of the memorial.

  • August 15 – September 30, 2021 – 8:00 p.m.
  • October 1, 2021 – May 26, 2022 – No ceremony, sculpture is illuminated nightly at sunset.
  • May 27 – August 13, 2022 – 9:00 p.m.
  • August 14 – September 30, 2022 – 8:00 p.m.
Mount Rushmore at night. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Mount Rushmore at night. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Tip: Since it was full of people and we didn’t want to spend a long time waiting in line when the crowds all left at the same time, we paid for parking in advance, snapped the pictures quickly, and ran to our car so were among the first ones to leave. It’s like leaving a stadium at the end of game.

Take several shots of the presidents’ faces: There are several places where you can get different perspectives of the presidents’ faces, so do not only take a picture from the Grand View Terrace. The Presidential Trail offers magnificent shots throughout.

Visit the Sculptor’s Studio: Here you will learn about Gutzon Borglum, the carving process, demonstrations of the tools, and the details of the lives of the workers. The studio is now open daily from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. during the summer. Schedules are posted at both the Information Center and Lincoln Borglum Visitor Center.

Join Ranger walks (30 minutes): You can join these at various locations throughout Mount Rushmore. Schedules are also posted at the Information Center and Lincoln Borglum Visitor Center.

How much does it cost to visit Mount Rushmore?

The entrance to Mount Rushmore is free. However, you will have to pay for US$10 to park. Parking fees can be paid with cash or credit card at the several automatic ticket machines located throughout.

No visit to South Dakota is complete without a visit to Mount Rushmore. Take the chance to soak up the history of Mount Rushmore by exploring this amazing monument.

What should you bring to Mount Rushmore?

Make sure you bring comfortable shoes to walk around the National Monument as well as water and a hat to protect you from the sun.

We are part of several affiliate programs including Amazon and Viator which means that we will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase through the links included in this blog.

Badlands National Park, USA: Tips to spend a perfect day

Badlands National Park, USA: Like a white river cutting through the Prairie, the Badlands of South Dakota is an unforgettable icon of the American West. Learn the best tips to spend the perfect day in this amazing park.

When we told a few of our friends about our plans to visit South Dakota, they were shell-shocked – we were asked many times why the heck we would even want to go to the middle of nowhere. I was puzzled by this response as with a little bit of help from Google, I kept seeing some of the most amazing attractions, and all within a close proximity, that are unique to South Dakota. It’s obvious many people only think of Mt. Rushmore when South Dakota is mentioned, and few are aware of the beauty of its otherworldly parks dotted throughout. However, Badlands stands a cut above the rest.

I know this might sound like a cliché, but I will say it anyway: The Badlands National Park blew our minds away. The beauty of this park is something that everyone should experience once in their lifetime. And since I have been back, I have been encouraging everyone to go.

Why is Badlands National Park famous?

Badlands National Park. South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Badlands National Park. South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

The Badlands National Park houses one of the world’s richest fossil beds and consists of 244,000 acres full of canyons, pinnacles, buttes, and spires. Basically, it’s a photographer’s dream.

One of the aspects that impressed me the most was the utter silence you could experience at Badlands. I remember being at the Yellow Mounds Overlook, telling my husband to sit down and just “listen” to the silence all around us. We stayed there for a few minutes, absorbed in the natural silence, and soaking in the amazing landscape. It was an intense experience as we enjoyed the feeling of totally being alone in nature.

There are several species of wildlife who are really privileged to live in the park including pronghorn antelope, mule deer, prairie dogs and bison. We drove the famous Sage Creek Rim Road where we spent quite a bit of time looking at the bison – one evening we spent a couple of hours surrounded by the creatures! It’s really funny to watch how buffalo block the road and they don’t care if there is a long line of cars trying to move past.

What to do

Badlads National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Badlads National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Drive Badlands Loop Road (SD 240): Drive along the stunning ancient rock formations, cliffs, and colorful spires. Try to keep your eyes on the road, as the landscape constantly shifts around and it is simply mesmerizing. The road is a serpentine 40 mile loop, but you will stop frequently at the overlooks to take in the scenery and take hundreds of pictures (we took over 1000 pictures during our 7-day trip to South Dakota!). All in all, it takes 40-50 minutes but expect to spend a couple hours or more due to the stops, which are well worth the time. SD 240 is a winding road with several sharp turns so please drive carefully.

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Do a hike or two: There are several trails to choose from in Badlands National Park. We hiked the Notch Trail which is the most popular and offers amazing views as well as a cool log ladder to climb. It’s short and not too strenuous so you can combine it with the Window 0.4 km (round trip) and Door trails 1.2 km (round trip), which are also short and easy, and conveniently located very close to the Notch Trail.

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Read blog: Hiking the Notch Trail in Badlands National Park 3 things you must know

Other hikes that are more demanding and take more time are the Castle Trail (16 km round trip that cuts across open Prairie) and the Medicine Root Loop Trail (6.4 km round trip). We didn’t do these hikes as it was way too hot for us.

Stop by the overlooks: There are 16 overlooks along the loop road. The map you will receive when you enter the park lists all of them but it’s really easy to find them as you just need to follow the road. All overlooks offer great views, but our favorites were: Big Badlands Overlook, Pinnacles Overlook, and Yellow Mounds Overlook. Do not miss these overlooks as they will all take your breath away. Park your car when you reach the overlooks and explore the surroundings. There are a few paths you can follow to get closer to the rock formations and take pictures from several angles.

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Read blog: Things to do in Badlands National Park, South Dakota

Tip: Watch out for the rattle sneaks. There are several signs warning about these animals. Thankfully we didn’t see any during our trip but please be careful.

Say hi to the wildlife: Seeing bison, bighorn sheep, and prairie dogs, along with other animals, was one of the best experiences at Badlands National Park. Some of them won’t event react to your presence (goats) while others might get scared (prairie dogs) or just ignore you (bison). There is nothing cooler than seeing these animals in the closest thing to their natural habitat, and essentially in the wild. It really evoked memories of the stories of the Old West with animals meandering along the plains.

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When to go

In summer (when we visited) temperatures can be brutal, so you should keep in mind that you won’t be able to be outside for a long time without getting drenched from head to toes. Also, thunderstorms can pop up out of nowhere in the afternoon; remember to pack adequate gear and take shelter. In winter, temperatures drop significantly and some of the roads can be closed. The shoulder season might bring lower accommodation prices, better temperatures, and smaller crowds.

How much time do you need at Badlands?

Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
If you are pressed for time, you can stop at the main viewpoints and do a hike or two all in one day. However, we recommend you spend two days at this amazing park. Trust me when I tell you that the landscapes will take your breath away, and the evening hours provide a totally different experience. There were some overlooks that we enjoyed so much that we ended up visiting twice. If you don’t mind waking up early, head to the park in the early hours – you’ll feel as if the park as hardly anyone will be around.

Entrance fees and opening times

To enter to the Badlands National Park costs $30 per vehicle and is valid for 7 days. There is also an annual pass that costs $80. It is valid for one year from the month of purchase. Badlands National Park is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Where to stay

We highly recommend you stay in the town of Wall, located approximately 10-15 minutes away from the entrance to Badlands National Park, where you will quickly reach the Pinnacles overlook. Wall is really small (I don’t recall seeing more than one traffic light) and there are a few motels and restaurants where you can grab a bite to eat. We stayed both at the Days Inn and America Best Value Inn Wall. Both hotels were clean and comfortable – however, don’t expect luxury.

If you have time, visit Wall Drug, which is a popular attraction in the town and it started as a pit stop for free ice. The entire complex encompasses nearly 76,000 square feet so I’m sure you will find something to buy and take home. Wall Drug is also famous to grab 5 cent coffee and a homemade donut while visiting.

Tip: Service at some of the restaurants in Wall are slow…really slow and the food is inconsistent. Expect to wait 45 minutes for your food. Plan accordingly so that it doesn’t delay your schedule.

Alternatively, you can stay at the Cedar Pass Lodge located inside Badlands National Park which offers cabins and campgrounds. Make sure to book your reservation in advance as it can get filled up quickly – especially during the high season.

Where to eat while visiting Badlands

There is a restaurant at the Cedar Pass Lodge which offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We didn’t eat there so I can’t share our personal experience. We decided to drive to Wall instead and go the restaurant Red Rock. We ate hamburgers and they were nothing to write home about or anywhere for that matter. Service was also really slow. When we stopped at Wall Drug later in the day it was full of people so if you want to grab a bite to eat at this place note that you probably will spend quite some time waiting. Frankly, we recommend you stop by the local grocery store and make a picnic for lunch or dinner.

What to bring along

Hiking shoes: We brought sneakers and we did fine. But if we were visiting the Badlands National Park again, I would make sure to bring hiking shoes – especially if you are hiking the more arduous trails. If you are worried about rattlesnakes, you can always purchase a pair of snake guards that goes over your shoes/boots.

For women: Oboz sawtooth II low b-dry hiking shoe

For men: Oboz sawtooth II low b-dry hiking shoe

Sunscreen: Essential as you will be outside for most of the day. I recommend Supergoop! for your face and Coppertone for your body.

Hat: Another must bring item to protect against the sun’s heat is a hat. You can’t go wrong with The North Face Washed Norm Hat.

Water: Bring along water with you. We recommend the Nomader Collapsible Water Bottle which you can fill at the hotel in advance. Some overlooks have water fountains available to fill bottles.

We are part of several affiliate programs including Amazon and Viator which means that we will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase through the links included in this blog.

Hiking the Notch Trail in Badlands National Park: 3 things you must know

The Notch Trail in Badlands National Park is, by far, the best hike in the park. Not only it is easy, but you’ll have the best views of the park and the surrounding Prairie.

The Notch Trail is the most popular hike in Badlands National Park, famous for its stark landscape and awe-inspiring views. This trail also features the most “instagramable” landmark of the Badlands – the log ladder. The Notch trail is an easy hike, perfect for beginners (the only difficult part is descending the ladder, and that was nothing to write home about).

As I mentioned in my previous blog, we traveled to South Dakota in August and the summer heat made it almost unbearable to be outside – especially during peak hours. To avoid the heat and crowds, we decided to wake up really early (6:30 am) for our hike to the Notch Trail. Our hotel was about 15 minutes away, so we had the park all to ourselves.

Doing the hike, or any hike in the Badlands, needs to take into account the heat – there is hardly any shade (mostly coming from the shadows of the rock outcrops) on the trail. Make sure you avoid the searing heat if you hike the trail in the summer. Arriving early had the added benefit that we encountered hardly anyone in the trail, which allowed us to take our time to enjoy the park, and we had no issue finding parking.

Hiking the Notch Trail. Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Hiking the Notch Trail. Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

How do you get to the Notch Trail?

The Notch Trail can be accessed near the northeast entrance of the Badlands National Park, which is found before the visitor center, and you’ll immediately recognize it by the rock formations and large parking area. This serves as the trailhead for many other hikes, with the Door and Window trails close by and the big trek across the Prairie, the Castle tail, across the street. For your convenience, park at the southern end (farthest part from the entrance) of the parking lot as you will be closer to the start of the trail.

Tip: I recommend you hike during the early morning since the sun will provide perfect lighting for your photos. There are tons of animals around, including rattlesnakes – thankfully we never encountered any during the morning hike.

Hiking the Notch Trail. Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Hiking the Notch Trail. Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

How long does it take to hike the Notch Trail?

The Notch Trail is not too long (1.5 miles/2.4 km roundtrip) and it can take you between 1.5 to 2 hours depending on how long you stop for photos. The trail is marked as moderate to strenuous on the park’s official website. For Christian and I who are not hikers by any means, the hike was moderate and really easy in many parts. I believe it’s doable for most people, but it’s not recommended for anyone who has a fear of heights. The ladder looks more intimidating than it is, but you will be fairly high up. Once you reach the Notch itself, you may not want to look down as you will be high above the Prairie.

The trail is well marked, and easy to follow; there is a sign at the start warning that there is rough terrain ahead, and pets are not allowed. You will also see signs warning of rattlesnakes along the way so be careful – keep your eyes and ears open. Fortunately, we didn’t encounter any during the two days we spent at Badlands National Park, however they are a common predator in the area. Once you are ready to start the hike, you will follow a gravel and mostly flat road, which is not hard at all, throughout the lower end of the trail.

After a few minutes, you will get to the famed wooden ladder (do not forget to take a picture at this location, both from the bottom and the amazing perspective from the summit). If there are people going up or down, you will need to wait for your turn as it only allows for one-way traffic.

It’s not difficult but if you have a fear of heights it might be challenging. It was scarier to go down (for me) but I didn’t have any problems. Hold tight to the wooden logs and don’t look down while you descend. There is a part where you will feel tempted to hop off and walk down the side as the cliff transitions to the trail, be careful as this is very slippery.

Hiking the Notch Trail. Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Christian Bergara

After ascending the ladder, the trail gently meanders along the ridge of the shallow canyon. There are some great moments to soak in on this part of the trail including tons of incredible rock formations all around you. You will have a great view of a mini-canyon from above – it is truly spectacular. When walking along the rocks, please watch your step as there are a few potentially unstable sections, nothing major but if you are not expecting it you may slip.

Read blog: Things to do in Badlands National Park, South Dakota

Avoid hiking this trail after it rains and wait for better weather conditions; the trail is naturally very dusty, and the rain will cover everything in slippery mud. Remember to keep looking behind you because the changing perspectives offers great photo opportunities where you can capture the ladder in its surroundings – the amazing landscape will take your breath away (blog banner photo)!

Hiking the Notch Trail. Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Christian Bergara
Hiking the Notch Trail. Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Christian Bergara
The trail ends with a beautiful view over the White River Valley where there is a moderate incline to reach it. In my opinion, the rock formations that you will see along the way were the highlight of the trail; my husband loved the views from the top of the ladder and the end of the trail. There is only one way back – you will have to retrace your steps to go back to the parking lot.

View over the White River Valley. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

What should you bring along?

Hiking shoes: We hiked this trail in sneakers (and we even saw people hiking like mountain goats wearing flip flops). However, you will encounter some trickier parts along the trail, so it’s better to wear hiking shoes to avoid a possible mishap.

For women: Oboz sawtooth II low b-dry hiking shoe

For men: Oboz sawtooth II low b-dry hiking shoe

Sunscreen: As I mentioned before there is hardly if any, shade along the trail. Please avoid a sunburn by wearing sunscreen. I recommend Supergoop! for your face and Coppertone for your body.

Hat: The sun can be brutal, so bring a good hat with you. The North Face Washed Norm Hat is really cute!

Water: You will get thirsty (especially during the summer months) along the way so bring water with you. We recommend the Nomader Collapsible Water Bottle which you can fill at the hotel in advance.

We are part of several affiliate programs including Amazon and Viator which means that we will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you if you make a purchase through the links included in this blog.

Things to do in Badlands National Park, South Dakota

Check out what to do in Badlands National Park. Located in South Dakota, this park gives you a true taste of what natural beauty really is on the Great Plains.

Our trip to South Dakota exceeded all of our expectations. When planning our trip, we had seen beautiful landscapes of the real American West in the pictures, but they did not adequately prepare us for what we experienced. Breathtaking scenery combined with visits from the real locals – the wildlife – made this trip unforgettable. We highly recommend you visit this under-the-radar travel destination, especially those of you coming from overseas.

Visiting Badlands National Park was the highlight of the whole trip, even surpassing the beautiful Custer Park and the Black Hills. Millions of people visit Badlands every year; this national park is most known for its impressive geological formations and collection of animal fossils. Badlands offers 244,000 acres of wilderness where you can witness bighorn sheep, prairie dogs, bison, black-footed ferrets, among many other animals, in their natural habitat. The park is truly a photographer’s dream.

This was a last-minute trip and we traveled in August, which means almost unbearable high temperatures and lots of crowds. In order to beat both the heat and crowds, we had to wake up really early to avoid getting cooked by an almost desert sun. Remember, this is part of the Great Plains where temperatures can range from 100 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer to negative 35 in the winter. We ended up relaxing in our hotel during the hottest parts of the day.

However, waking up early and following this routine had a bonus: we had Badlands for ourselves. There was hardly anyone in the early morning or evening, which allowed us to experience the utter silence there is in the park – an experience I won’t ever forget.

Entrance fees and opening times

Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

There are plenty of things you can do at Badlands, so if you can, I recommend you spend two days in the park. One day will allow you to stop at the overlooks and do one of the many hikes the park offers. However, if you area able to spend two days, you will have more time and flexibility to do more hikes and go back to your favorite overlooks. We stopped by the overlooks at different times of the day and took in the beauty in the park without having to rush in search for the next picture. Some of the best photos we took all happened at sunset with the park’s wildlife.

Note that Badlands is open 24 hours all year round. The entrance to the park costs $30 per vehicle. Because we knew that we were going to visit it several times, we decided to purchase an annual pass which cost us $80. The park is worth every penny and we ended up saving some money with the annual pass.

What should you not miss in Badlands National Park?

The North Unit of the park is the most popular. Here you will find the Badlands Loop Road with several overlooks around the road as well as the Sage Creek Rim Road.

Drive Badlands Loop Road (SD 240):

This is a must do when visiting Badlands National Park. You can access this road by heading south from Interstate 90 via Exit 110 (the town of Wall) or exit 131. The highway 240 loop road is a two-lane paved road so you won’t need a 4X4 vehicle; it’s an easy drive and the scenery will mesmerize you. This winding road with several sharp turns will allow you to see amazing angles of all the landscapes the park offers throughout the drive so be sure to have your camera ready. Driving the length of the loop road will take you around 1 hour, without stopping. However, it’s impossible not to stop, so it will take you longer than that.

Stop by the overlooks:

There are several signs along the way announcing visitors of upcoming overlooks. Overlooks are a fun and convenient way to experience the stark beauty of Badlands National Park since you can get out of your car and enjoy the view; take this chance to go “off the beaten path” and explore more of your surroundings.

Tip: In some of the overlooks, you will be able to walk around and get shots from different perspectives. Don’t miss the opportunity to do this but be careful where you step, the terrain might be slippery and please do not get near the edge. Also, the prairie rattlesnake is a common creature of the area, so keep your eyes – and ears – open.

There are 16 amazing overlooks throughout Badlands Loop Road, each with its own unique beauty. Here are a few of my favorites:

Pinnacle Overlook. Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Christian Bergara
Pinnacle Overlook. Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Christian Bergara

Pinnacles overlook: This overlook is the highest elevation in the North Unit and offers magnificent shots, especially in the evening. If you are lucky and it’s a clear day you might be able to see the Black Hills casually popping up in the background.

Pinnacles Overlook. Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Christian Bergara
Pinnacles Overlook. Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Christian Bergara

Keep an eye out for wildlife – we saw bighorn sheep and the cutest lamb grazing next to the parking area during our visit. This is one of the most popular overlooks in the loop road so it can get busy if you stop by in the peak hours. It is also a great spot to watch the sunset.

Yellow mounds overlook: This overlook was my favorite – it was hard to believe my eyes when I saw the colors dancing along the different rock formations. Yellow, purple, gray, green and reddish colored mounds were everywhere I looked. We took advantage to explore the area, and walked on top of the mounds which gave us even better views! Watch your step if you do so as it might get slippery. This overlook has a parking lot and provides views of some of the oldest layers in the park.

Conata Basin overlook: This overlook offers magnificent views of Badland’s ancient soils – the Yellow mounds and the interior paleosol. At this overlook, there is a bench where you can sit to take in the beauty of the park. Keep in mind this is also one of the classic photos of Badlands as you’ll see the mix of the zebra stripped hills mixing with other formations.

Panorama point overlook: The original names for the Badlands by the Lakota was “White River” or “White Hills”. This overlook really makes you understand why it was called the White River, as the white colored hills cut across the plains like giant river. It’s a stunning view where you can see the red zebra stripes contrasting with the stark white rocks.

Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Big Badlands overlook: Badlands is full of gorgeous landscapes perfect for photos, but there is one iconic photo that defines the park and this overlook offers it. At this overlook you can view the eastern portion of the Badlands wall and it’s just not possible to not be mesmerized by the red stripes of the rocks. This will be the one photo that is most associated with the park – hundreds of red zebra striped hills protruding from the landscape. There is nowhere else in the world to see such a sight; make sure you take this iconic image home with you. I can’t tell you how many pictures we ended up taking here – too many to count!

Catch a glimpse of the wildlife:
Badlands National Park. South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
Badlands National Park. South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

Sage Creek Rim Road (SD 590) can also be accessed from the Badlands Loop Road –the intersection is located north of the Pinnacles Overlook. This is a dusty road which offers a magnificent opportunity to witness the wildlife of the park. There are 4 overlooks located in this road where you can enjoy wonderful views.

Driving this road would allow you to see all the creatures native to the Great Plains, who are very fortunate to live in such an amazing setting. Look for bison, commonly known as buffalo, and don’t be surprised if they spend a long time blocking the road, as they meander along socializing with each other. Please don’t get out of your car and just roll your windows down to take pictures.

Bison are fantastic creatures and it’s really funny to watch them. You’ll see how they interact with one another, but what was funny to us was how they would roll on the ground (like a horse!) or use the posted sings to scratch their backs.

We also had the chance to visit the prairie dogs and their cute “houses”; these areas are called Prairie Dog Towns throughout the plains. Prairie dogs live family style and it’s really funny to see how they communicate with each other. Much like a close connected family they go visit each other’s dens and chat the day away, or watch the cars go past on the road. It’s difficult to get close to them as they might feel frightened and hurry to their “houses”.

Take a helicopter ride:

If you want to see Badlands National Park, take the opportunity to enjoy a helicopter ride. Black Hills Aerial Adventures offer flights starting from $49 per person. There are five different rides you can take. Please see all options in this link.

Popular hikes:

There are several hikes available at Badlands National Park. Because of the heat, we only did a couple of hikes. If you are pressed for time, we highly recommend you hike the Notch Trail. It’s not difficult and the views throughout the path are amazing! The door and window trails are really short so we recommend you do these as well.

The Notch Trail. Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela
The Notch Trail. Badlands National Park, South Dakota. Credit: Carolina Valenzuela

For those hikers with more time, we recommend the castle and the medicine root loop trails. These will cut across the prairie and you will be exposed to the elements. While some experienced hikers we spoke with found this hike to be moderate, we were told for beginners it may be too strenuous and long.

What to bring

There are a few items that we recommend you bring to your visit to Badlands National Park if you are visiting during the summer months.

Hiking shoes: We brought sneakers which were fine for us. But if you are hiking other trails, please bring sturdy shoes. Below are my recommendations

For women: Oboz sawtooth II low b-dry hiking shoe

For men: Oboz sawtooth II low b-dry hiking shoe

Water: A must. Make sure to pack a refillable bottle as you can get water from one of the parks fountains. I recommend the Nomader Collapsible Water Bottle, which rolls up for compact travel.

Sunscreen: There is hardly any shade at the park and in summer, it gets really hot so make sure you protect your skin when visiting the park. I recommend Supergoop! for your face and Coppertone for your body.

Lip balm: Because of the heat I got cracked lips so it was handy to have brought the EOS lip balm to get rid of the uncomfortable feeling that having cracked lips brings along.

Hat: This is an absolute must to protect you from the heat. I recommend you bring along The North Face Washed Norm Hat.

Dramamine: I get vertigo really easily and fortunately I didn’t get dizzy when driving the loop road. If you are prone to getting dizzy, bring along Dramamine as there there are several loops and turns throughout the roads.

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